Linear WD500Z-1 HELP!

Aw, man…now I have a completely different problem…

First off, if I should start a new thread, I will. Please advise. I just thought I’d use this one since the title is what I need…

I got it all up and running, and then I cut the power to the circuit in order to put it all back into the box, and now, after powering the circuit back on, it’s not coming on at all.

So, does that mean I messed something up when trying to find a way to stuff all of the wires back in there?

Ideas?

EDIT:
With the power to the circuit on, one of the other devices that is on the same circuit (a wall outlet) is working just fine, but on this linear switch, the ‘indicator’ light isn’t even coming on.

Yeah most likely with the excessive amount of wire and the size and the switch something came loose shoving it all into the box and screwing it down. I run into this and now tend to just barely start the screws and then flip the power so I can test it and make sure all the connections are good while closing it all back up.

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Check the air gap pull.

Also. Check my post history for a smart app that disables the indicator light dynamically.

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Thanks, guys.

Wow…holy crap! I just lived through a nightmare!
OK…maybe not a nightmare, but what a mess…

I won’t list out every step I took in troubleshooting this d@mn thing, but I’ll just say it included cycling power to the circuit from the breaker box (which is OUTSIDE of the house for some strange reason that I’m sure makes complete sense) at least 10 times, and a few hours worth of trying this and that, to finally figure out that it was coming from a faulty wiring job that was done by the builder.

I was almost ready to send the switch back at one point, but then, I noticed that both of the live wires for both of the switches in this same box had fallen completely out, and were now resting on the floor.

I reattached and firmed up everything, and it worked just fine.

So, I’m good to go now, and I thank you guys a huge bunch!

Oh, and I definitely will look for that app you just mentioned. Thanks, man.

If it behaves incorrectly, let me know and I’ll fix it.

@codytruscott

Is this what you were referring to?

Yes. If it doesn’t work, let me know and I’ll look into it.

My LED indicator didn’t work at first, but it’s been working fine for a long while. I use the basic “Z-Wave Switch” device type. The only ones that aren’t perfect are the 3-way switches. They don’t change when the main switch is turned on. I’m using the latest app version with the hub v2, but lord knows I wish I wasn’t. NOTHING works properly on 2.

brand new to home automation, just received my smart things in the mail this afternoon and busy trying to figure it out tonight! got my first device, WD500Z-1 linear dimmer, paired after a bunch of trial and error (thanks to all the previous messages here).

But even though I got it to pair, it just doesn’t respond at all. When I try hitting on or off on the iPhone app, nothing happens at all.

Have no idea if there’s another setting I need to activate?

The physical switch still works fine as a dummy switch, but real reason to buy was to use the z wave connectivity / iphone ap feature to control too…

If you had to do it all over again, would you stick with these switches or go with a different model?

I have two of them but am moving soon to a home that will actually allow smart switches. Going back and forth between these and the GE’s sold at Lowes/Amazon.

Definitely these. Love them.

I’d certainly go with the latest GE switches. The linears use a very old zwave chipset at this point.

I haven’t tried any new GE switches but certainly the original GE’s I bought from ST didn’t dim LED’s near as well as the Linear.

Just my own experience. Tried every sequence on earth… and nothing happened until I physically brought my hub near the dimmer switch. Then it identified it in a second. I could not exclude it b/c it was not included. So when I tried putting the hub into exclusion mode, nothing happened… (it is my first Z-Wave device). So… short story - hub needed to be closer.

I’m not having any luck finding a matching nondimming switch that matches the WD500Z. The Linear and 2Gig ones have a different design

Well. Yes. The original ge dimmers specifically noted they didn’t work with leds and the new ones are a totally different design.

I set my 3 switches up on Nexia with no problem yesterday. Ordered the Samsung Smarthings so as to not deal with monthly subscription but I can’t get the hub to recognize them. I tried the pull tab out on bottom left. push in on then push tab back while holding on for a few seconds.
Didn’t work. I will note that all 3 of these are connected together in one big outlet.

Edit. I finally managed to remove the 3 switches from Nexia but still having trouble.

I had the same problem. Moved the hub next to the switch and it paired right away. I am not a fan of the low power pairing that Z-Wave uses to prevent snooping. The chance a snooper is listening during pairing is extremely small. Not: My LED never flashed for Inclusion or Exclusion mode, but works properly during normal operation.

@codytruscott sorry to bother. Just copied your code to disable the satus led on my WD500Z-1 dimmer but it did not worked. i get the following error in the simulator if it helps :

java.lang.IllegalArgumentException: Command 'indicatorWhenOn' is not supported by device bec095a7-d2a9-4823-b5d9-a9b8b701c8ed of type 'Z-Wave Dimmer Switch Generic'. Supported commands: [on, off, poll, setLevel, refresh, ping]

thanks a lot

Hi Cody. What is the model number of the newer GE dimmers you mentioned? I want to ensure I get the latest versions.