I am a new ST user as of yesterday and I have had good luck connecting all of my Things. I installed the GD00Z-04 Garage Door Opener and the process went very smoothly until I tried to open the door with the app.
The GD00Z-04 connected to ST with no problem
The sensor registered after opening and closing the door manually
Everything shows up fine in the app and the Open or Closed status is correct
When I hit the “Open” button in the app, the device beeps 5 times and then I hear a CLICK and then nothing happens in to the door.
The Genie has 6 posts that you can wire things to. Per the instructions, I twisted the Linear wires to the existing wall opener wires and inserted them into slots 3 & 4. The existing wires in 3 & 4 were nicely labelled from when I installed the garage opener. In the diagram below, slots 5 & 6 look like they are for the Genie Intelligent Wall Console. I wonder if the GD00Z-04 could be wired into there?
I read in another post that folks were having difficulty with more advanced wall mounted openers. The one I have is pretty basic. Do you have any debugging tips that I could use? Is there anything I could measure across the GD00z-04 wires with a multimeter to see if it is working?
is the existing wall switch/controller, 3 buttons? It won’t work in a standard way with GD00Z-04. I’d call that switch a controller, since it is not a simple switch (on/off) - it actually uses at least 3 states to signal the opener (open, close and light). A bit too complicated.
The Linear GD00Z-04 is made for interface to “dry contact” input on garage door opener - it’s an old standard of “push the single button to open”, “push the single button to stop”, and “push the single button to close”. THAT is pretty simple, in this domain.
If you take the controller or a wireless remote apart then you may be able to solder additional connections to achieve what you need, but it’s not trivial. I’d try jumpering the main button connections in the controller, before soldering, to see if you can make it send the signal you need.
Thanks, Eric. If I replace to wall switch with a simple dry contact switch from HD, do you that will fix the problem, or will a switch like that not work with the system? I was eyeing up this beauty:
I read the Genie manual briefly and I decided “no”, the “BWC controller” terminals and the “IWC intelligent controller” terminals on the opener, will not read a dry-contacts switch as you want - unless that feature is completely undocumented - I saw the same diagram you posted. Which is why you have to trick your existing wall controller (by soldering extra wires to it from GD00Z-04) to send the signal that the opener needs to see. The nature of the signal, I do not know, but it is not a simple switch.
You could possibly measure the signal that the controller sends and simulate that; it might be a modulating resistance which would be easier to simulate. Most likely it’s a digital gadget that resists easy simulation.
I ended up buying a Genie remote at HD and programmed it to open the door. I then took that remote apart and soldered the Linear wires across the circuitry of the remote button. I could easily have fried the remote but I lucked out and my horrible soldering skills came out on top.
Thanks for all the support! This forum is awesome!
So, I have the exact same situation however, I don’t want to do an soldering and hacking to make this work? Any one figured out a wiring configuration that got this working? I really am not looking forward to uninstalling and shipping back. Thanks!
I’m a technical guy but have actually never soldered before. I have an extra Genie remote. I’m willing to give it a try. Any tips on what I solder it to inside the remote?
@Bobby_Wilson, I was in the same boat as you. I had soldered some things 35 years ago when I was a kid working on model railroads, but I hadn’t touched a soldering iron since. Here is what I did:
This is the Genie remote I used:
I programmed the front button to open and close the desired door. I then used a coin to pry open the remote as if you were changing the battery.
Here is the finished soldering job:
You will see that each of the three buttons on the remote have two contacts, right and left that need to be “Closed” for the button to activate. Before soldering I used the multimeter and tested for continuity to find that the top half of those circles were part of the same side of the switch and the two bottom halves were part of the other side. I switched my multimeter to a voltage testing more (I think) and when I touched the top of one circle (2) with one probe and the bottom of the other circle (1) with the other probe, the LED blinked and the door opened. Voila!
Obviously the soldering was nerve racking. It could have gone badly very quickly. If the solder crossed from the top half of the circle to the bottom half, I would have had a closed circuit all the time and it wouldn’t work.
“voltage testing mode” seems a little unclear. If you were “measuring voltage” with your meter, and probing the remote/controller, then you would be unlikely to have any effect on the controller buttons nor make it send a signal because voltage measurement is usually a “high impedance” function.
“continuity testing mode” PROBABLY would trigger the remote/controller signal.
“current measurement mode” PROBABLY would trigger the remote/controller signal.
but a “jumper” (short piece of wire connecting 2 button terminals, WILL trigger the remote/controller button signal that is being jumpered. A jumper is preferable to using your meter which could be damaged unnecessarily - which is not likely when you are testing low voltage devices. But a jumper is simpler - a meter can interfere with the intended operation.
I just installed the Go Control / Linear garage door opener on a Genie Silentmax 1000 with success. I ordered the Genie Dry Contact Adapter part 38013R to sit between the Go Control and the Genie opener. The part was about $16. I just cut the Go Control wire to about 6 inches long. Insert that wire into one end of the adapter. Then used the excess wire to run between the other end of the adapter and the opener, inserting the wire ends into the BWC connectors right along with the existing wall control wires. The adapter is clearly labeled and uses push button connectors. Very easy.
"Long story short–turns out I did not need the dry contact adapter after all; I’m guessing that it’s not needed in my case because my particular Genie model uses what’s called a Series 2 Wall Control module rather than a Series 3 module (in which case I would assume that for Series 3 modules the dry contact adapter might/would be required)–the Wall Control module consists of 3 buttons (Open/Close, Light, and Lock); the visual difference between the two Series is that Series 2 has white-colored buttons while Series 3 has black-colored buttons.
Hopefully this bit of info might help other folks with similar Genie openers in determining if they may need the dry contact adapter."
I cannot get the GoControl working with the Genie 1000.
I have the GoControl wire(s) connected to the ‘switch’ side of the Dry Contact Adapter (38013R), and then have two wires running from the ‘opener’ side of the Dry Contact Adapter to ports/connector #3 and #4 on the Genie Intelli 1000.
I had the same exact setup a few months ago until the board on my garage opener burnt out. Genie ended up sending me a replacement board and wall mount button. After replacing the parts, the dry contact sensor and GoControl unit no longer worked. I think they redesigned their board and remote somehow where the dry contact sensor works differently. After a week of messing around, I ended up soldering the GoControl wires directly to a push button remote. It’s been working flawlessly since.
I have the Genie 1000 - did the same as you with the soldering but it never worked for me. I will probably end up getting the Liftmaster installed with a WiFi bridge and then use the code written in the forums which worked at another house. Ugh.
I also have the Genie 1000, I know this is late, but for others hooking these up, I hooked up my scope to see what was going on in the wall control. The W terminal is pulled up to 5 volts. To turn on the light, they pull this signal down to 2 volts and release it. To operate the opener, it gets pulled down to ground. I plan on using a Wemos to drive the W signal so I can both operate the opener and operate the light and use a magnetic door sensor to detect open or close.
Thanks for the measurements - if the signal is not digital, then the Gocontrol output should work for the door function without the light function. Odd there are still posts that say they can’t make Gocontrol work for them.
Did you try a momentary jumper on the motor unit input? That’s all the Gocontrol really does - they should call it “Goshortcircuit” but that probably wouldn’t sell well.
I buzzed out the circuit on the wall controller to see what they are doing before experimenting. It is a simple open-collector circuit with resistors, no logic. When you press the open button, it connects B/W to W and operates the door. When you press the light button, B/W connects to W through an 82 ohm resistor and an LED. I then shorted B/W to W and it operated the door. When no buttons are pressed, B/W goes through a 120 ohm resistor to the 82 ohm resistor through the LED to W, so there is a 200 ohm + LED load on B/W when no buttons are pressed. W is ground. Perhaps this device is adding a load to B/W that is causing an issue.
This worked great! Since most garage door openers come with two FOBs and each can program multiple doors, I had two extra FOBs from my pair of Genie openers. I soldered the connections as shown above and it works like a charm. Will have to change the battery every few years, but no more than standard use would. Now if there were only better IFTTT support for Meross Garage door openers I’d be all set. Likely will have to write my own Geofencing applet.
