I used to have a string of incandescent lights plugged into a Leviton VRPD3-1LW lamp module. That was working for a while but, when those bulbs burned out, I replaced it with a string of LEDs. However, it won’t turn off completely. In the lamp module’s off state, the LEDs are at about 1% brightness, so there’s a very small current flowing. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot it?
the small current was probably flowing in your previous string, it just wasn’t enough to emit light with those bulbs.
You could use a different module that won’t leak (probably trying to sense if load is connected), or add some more load in parallel.
Oh yeah, I hadn’t considered that trickle current might be for sensing a load but that totally makes sense. I remember X10 modules operate that way–there’s a tiny amount of current passing through the bulb when it’s off but not enough to illuminate it.
However, don’t you mean adding a load in series? A load in parallel would lower the total resistance across the module’s output, which could cause it to fail or, worse, create a fire hazard. I think adding a resistor in series with the string might be enough to prevent the current from activating the LEDs (at the expense of decreasing their maximum brightness).
Known issue with these lamp modules. Lots of complaints on Amazon reviews with LED light bleed. This is an issue with the module and not a ST issue. Only solution is to return it and get a different module or use it only with higher current devices
Or I could just solder a variable resistor in series with the LED string and find the perfect value.
I do mean in parallel - by adding a triple-tap plug and a night-light with incandescent 4w bulb, with a total load less than the rating of the module.
About adding a resistor in series with the string - well, I would not modify the string itself. You’d need a “high power” resistor or pot rated for the full power of the string in watts, and it needs proper ventilation when the string is ON. An inadequate resistor could get very hot with just 4-5 watts. If you do try it, whether it works or not, then you’d better check the string for unmanageable heat in the string power supply and at the resistor. It would be great to post a followup if you try this - what is the LED string model, wattage, etc.
Series just seems like a bad idea anyway. Pretty sure you avoid the dim-off light condition with a parallel load.
I plugged a 3-outlet extension cable into the lamp module and plugged the LED string and a 7 watt incandescent lamp into that. The LED string can now turn off completely. Thanks!
this reminds me that you don’t want your girlfriend or wife (neither one of them) to plug in some high load into the triple-tap, just because it has an open socket, it might look ok to do, but it might burn out the module.
My wife ruined my favorite plug-in touch dimmer that way, plugged in a clothes iron and cooked it real good. Very sad, it was so cool (one of the dimming modes was, touch and dim gradually to off).
Not a problem. The triple-tap end of the cable is located up near the ceiling and I’m the only one tall enough to reach it.
It looks like the standard approach to this now is just plugging a phone charger into the second outlet on the pocket socket. Which is counterintuitive, but generally increases the draw enough that it will then turn it completely off.
I think it would be safer to find a bulb that works than putting in a resistor. I had to hit home depot 3 times to get leds that worked with my switches. I had been using TCP pros but they had changed them sometime in the last 3 years. A db with switch and bulb model combos would be great.