Is there a 4 button (3 or 4 speed+off) fan controller that will work with Smartthings?

If it’s only for 4 different speeds of fan, than any 4-button device would work, such as Ikea 5 buttons remote or Sengled 4 buttons switch, and many other

I do have and use Sengled Switch together with ABC Manager. There is Fan Configuration option that can be assigned to individual buttons.

This switches are currently $16 at BestBuy
Just re-label buttons

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What DTH are you using to add the Sengled switch to SmartThings? I knew about the device, I just haven’t heard of anyone using them with smartthings before. :sunglasses:

Doesn’t meet the OP’s other requirement, though.

Thanks. That’s a pretty good solution. I think I’d like to have something that will work even when Smartthings doesn’t

As far as I know, all of the multi button remotes require the cloud for fan integration.

@JDRoberts Stock dth. It is under Sengled brand as switch. Dth is adding it as switch not as button.


Nice looking remote, that is magnetically attached to wall plate.

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Whit all this things going on, I would definitely go with Hampton Bay, as it would work even without Smartthings hub, not just without internet.

What is the large empty button?/space at the bottom of the hampton bay wall mount?

That’s the battery cover.

It’s battery powered remote, that some people hardwired.

Thanks for the response. In this case I don’t think this will quite work. I would wind up with an unused light button and still not be able to see what speed the fan is running without looking at the fan. Switches that use small LEDs, colored LEDs or blinking LEDs just don’t work very well. This is why I’ve asked for the simple logic of button positions.

I just use Alexa to tell her to set the fan speed to percentages. I also have various Fire tablets mounted to various walls that get power from the switch below. From there, you can use one of the dashboards to set up your switch speeds. Create 4 Virtual Switches and create the needed rules. You can set the tablet to come on when you walk up to it by using its camera as a motion sensor. It’s a little work involves but you can set rooms up to display all of their controllable devices or just monitor things.

I personally use ActionTiles running in Fully Kiosk and DAKboard running as the screen saver.

Very sleek and modern!


I like your set-up. Are you using the Free version of Dakboard?

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Yes but licensed version of Fully Kiosk.

Thanks for that. Last question is how are you charging the Fire tablets? I’d like to do the same thing. Are you just running a cable in the wall to an outlet below? Is there a certain type of box you are using? I see a bunch of permanent mounts on Amazon for iPad, but nothing for a Fire tablet.

mbmounts.com is your best bet for all of this.

I get power from the switch below. I cut a 1 gang size hole (horizontal) above the switch. Fish Romex down and pigtail off the hot, neutral and ground to a recessed outlet box. I DIY my cables out of cheap wireless charger. Plug that into the recessed outlet with USB. Had to say all of that because of the internet police but one the below pictures might tell a different story. :eyes::thinking::rofl:

For mounting, I just use Velcro. All of my Tablets have been on the walls for at least three years and none have fallen off. I Velcro then just staple through it into the drywall for extra strength.

Don’t do this^^ it doesn’t meet code to have an exposed plug in the wall and not using 600V rated wiring.

You want a real 120V AC to 5v DC converter

Thanks for all the info! I ordered a mount from mbmounts.com.

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Dear God… With all respect, this is nothing to be proud of or treated lightly. If your house burnt down or one of your family members were injured or worse, you would never forgive yourself for cutting corners.

Or someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing reads this post and follows your example. Want that on your conscience?

Not trying to lecture or be the internet police but it really is a matter of life or death and that isn’t an exaggeration. People die from faulty wiring.

The primary purpose of an electrical box is to contain the arcing and heat in case of an overcurrent situation, so any surrounding materials don’t get ignited. Like the insulation that your splices are sitting on.

Never make splices in line voltage wiring without them being enclosed in a proper box.

You are absolutely correct. Picture doesn’t show the deep retrofit blue single gang electrical box.