You can rig up shields on a motion sensor to block areas or narrow a beam. (like a piece of pipe in front of the sonsor on ST sensors, flaps, etc.) I’ve done this to only monitor very specific areas. You can also hide them in a fashion so they almost function like switches…
Any wall mounting ideas for this button to use as a (wall)switch?
This might actually be close.
@Jim_Newman If the lights you want to control are under control of a zwave device, I would recommend the linear Aux switch over the GE because a linear aux switch can directly control another zwave device without wires.This eliminates delays of going through the smartthings huib, On and Off control is instant!
I have a linear zwave aux switch controlling a GE zwave light switch in my garage. I got the GE light switch on sale for $10 so I used that instead of buying another linear switch.
But back to the original question, is Jim_Newman’s Iris button working as expected? Or is it defective? Or is it a network issue?
As far as I can tell, my Iris smart button does NOT need a double press in order to send a command.
Prior to adding a zigbee repeater, button presses were intermittent.
In fact, I had different behavior if the garage was empty, or if there was a car parked in the garage.
With a car in the garage, before the repeater, the button acted intermittently, remove the car from the garage and the button worked better.
Remember that the double button press can be caused by different things. There’s not just one cause. So you could have a single device that was affected by multiple issues but showing the same symptoms each time.
The car in the garage is a perfect example. A big block of metal will degrade any signal. That increases the possibility of a lost message. But the same device might also be losing messages because the batteries were almost dead.
So in terms of troubleshooting, you just work each issue as you go and see what improvements you can get.
This makes the most sense. There’s probably some other issue. It might be that you just need to add a zigbee repeater. It might even just be a defective device. It happens, and these are inexpensively engineered to begin with. I’ve even seen some devices where the battery fitting wasn’t quite right and it didn’t make contact all the time. So you’d have to press a button several times just to get the battery back in line.
You can troubleshoot one issue at a time, or if that seems like too much trouble just switch to a Z wave device and see if that works better.
If you look at the list of supported buttons and remotes, for example, the Cooper 9500 is a battery operated zwave switch that looks nice on the wall. No wiring required. And the go control smart switch cover is another Z wave button switch that can be just mounted as is, doesn’t have to go over an existing switch. There’s also the remotec Z wave battery operated 8 button device. So there are a lot of choices.
One more thing (remember I said different causes could cause the same symptom)
There is a known bug with the Smart Lighting feature where if you try to toggle with a button press (for any device) the system requires an extra button press. But this would affect only smart lighting automations, not routines or other smart apps.
Thanks for your assistance. I’ve decided to give up on the Smart Button (it’s in a box waiting to go back to Amazon right now) and am going to see if a motion sensor will work.
Just installed this Smart Button. Outside of it feeling a little “cheap”, it seems to be working. Well enough that I removed the twist switch to the lamp that holds my Hue Bulb.
I’ve noticed that I have to wait for my button to stop flashing (usually 3 red flashes) before I can hit it again. Is that normal, or is that the “enhancement” of the other member’s code (currently using mitchp’s DH)?
I noted similar behavior on my smart button as well
I have seven or eight of the buttons, and all of them have stopped working at the same time. They are all in ST, but none of them flash the lights when buttons are pressed, nor are the button presses detected within ST. None of the temps updated.
This happened months ago, and I have only just now found time to dig into this.
Anyone have ideas? Batteries test good.
Yup, crappy battery connection. Happened to all mine too. I ended up putting a few small pieces of paper in the battery tray to lift up the battery ever so slightly, and that worked for one of them. The other one I needed to push in the tray really hard. I’m not overly impressed with these devices, so I only have 2.
Just for kicks, push in your battery tray on one of them and does it power back up? What happens if you push up on the bottom of the device kinda hard? Does it power back up? How about pressing the button hard? Each of those scenarios caused mine to power up.
Thanks John, sorry for the delayed response. I’ve been out of town.
ALL of the buttons stopped responding at the same time on the same day. They just… Stopped.
When I dismantle the button entirely and slide the battery into place, all make good contact, I just get no light responses.
I noticed this same exact behavior when I was goofing around with the Iris hub that Lowe’s shipped me way back when (as I had originally tested Iris, and they sent me the gen 2 hub). If the button was out of range of the hub after being paired, it became completely non-responsive. Performing a hard reset while within range of the hub brought it back to life and I could re-pair it.
It does not appear to be doing that for me with ST.
Starting to lose faith in these buttons…
Purchased two of these to toggle two Hue Bulbs. The first is in the Living Room just above the Hub placement and the second in the Bedroom on the 2nd floor.
The button in the living room seemed to work okay for the first few days, then it just stopped working last night. No lights when button is pressed. When I removed the button from the holder, it started to blink Blue. So I thought it was a battery issue and placed some paper under the battery… that just made the tray more difficult to slide in… and now the button is blinking Green.
The Bedroom button has always been a bit flaky probably a range issue. It worked the first few nights, then nothing… no blinking red either. Regarding the range issue, there’s a Z-wave garage door opener a few feet away on the other side of a wall… and in case that was acting as a repeater, I installed a z-wave plug in the room.
I’ll give these a few more days… but its not very promising.
Anyone know what all the LED colors mean (Red, Green, Blue)?
Hi @KC_703, the buttons are zigbee, not zwave so you’ll need a zigbee repeater. Also, no red lights at all means no battery power. Could be a crap battery, or bad connection.
Red = power and sending data when flashing
Green = rejoining the hub
Blue = not sure
@johnconstantelo - Thanks! I have some ST plugs on the way to help with zigbee range. I thought the Iris plug was a Zigbee repeater, but its actually a Zigbee plug with a Z-wave repeater.
Yeah, the Blue is perplexing. Originally thought it was a waiting to be found state, but it happened this afternoon. Possibly bad battery contacts so I took your advice and put a few pieces of paper under the battery.
There’s also the flashing pattern: Two quick flashes (wakeup?), three fast red (not sure), slow three red flashes (Single press), and long three flashes red (Button Held)…
We’ll see if these buttons stick around. When I want them to work, they don’t. When you don’t expect them to function, they work great… sigh
Some people (myself included ) bent the small prong in the back that touches the battery to help with maintaining power to the button. I didn’t bend it much was nervous prying on it at all.
I did read about bending the prongs for better contact. That’s the next thing to try…
I really like the ideas of the buttons, but I can’t be the only in the house that can get these things to work. Defeats the purpose of automation making my life easier.
That’s exactly what I ended up doing.
That’s what I did. And broke it.