I purchased an Iris Contact Sensor v2 and my ST v2 hub recognized it properly and works great. However, I’m trying to locate the reed sensor so I can use a switch instead. I’ve done this with several other door / window sensors where the reed switch is obvious, but on this one, I can’t locate it. Does anyone know? Thank you.
Not all of them offer the ability to use external switches.
Linear, Ecolink, Fibaro all do. There may be more but I know those 3 do for sure.
Brian, I know. That’s why I solder wires around the reed switch. I can’t find it on this v2 board.
also, the Go Control has terminals for it, but the function is not implemented. It is on the Ecolink though. Since I have a few GoControls, that’s what I got around by adding my own wires. No prob with that one.
Here you go.
It is not clear from the picture but you need to connect to the pin that is closer to edge of the board (and make sure that the second pin is not affected).
Disclaimer: I don’t have the board schematic and this is all empirical. I may be shorting the sensor itself, if I am lucky, or it could be a buffer output. In the latter case, if the buffer is not protected, it will die and I stand to lose $11.18. Also, I’ve been using modified sensors only for a month or so, and cannot tell anything about any possible adverse effects on the battery drain. But so far, it’s clicking.
These use a solid state hall sensor in lieu of the reed switch.
Hells yeah! Thank you VI! Also, thank you Mike because you answered my other question
Also, it’d be great to have you two join the SmartThings User Group on FB. https://www.facebook.com/groups/713465198796558/
It’s a closed group…
Right Mike. That’s to help keep out spammers and the likes. Just click Join and I’ll be able to accept your request.
Lap soldering to surface-mount components on a kitchen table!? I thought I was alone.
I’ll do the FB thing later today. Thanks!
I finished soldering it and it works great! I used some hot glue to secure the wire to the board since the connection being so micro is susceptible to separating. That really helped.
Thanks again! I’ll see you guys in the ST group on FB! -Bob
BAD news. Sorry, guys!
I checked one of the modified sensors and the thing does eat current when contact is closed (10mA or so). It looks like I am shorting a hard buffer, unfortunately.
In my case, it is not a big deal because the contact remains open most of the time but in other applications, the battery drainage will probably be significant.
I have a few additional sensors on order; and when they arrive, will look into this. But chances are marginal. The chip will probably have to be removed and replaced with a pull-up resistor.
I was so happy with this too! I checked the battery after your update and sure enough, it was nearly half dead and it’s a lithium! So I had to reverse the mod and find another use for this newly purchased sensor. It’s against my standards to return it after I modded the case even though I know they wouldn’t check. That wouldn’t be right. Thanks anyway VI. Appreciate the effort.
Is that how you got your user name? j.k. but I couldn’t resist. Please do join us on FB.
The answer to your first question is ‘yes’
And yes, I will.
I played with the thing some more. And unfortunately, I don’t see any easy ways to add a contact group while still retaining the existing functionality.
So, removed the Hall-effect sensor and added a ~4MOhm pull-up resistor (between the red wire and +V). Keeping the contacts closed, I see no increase in the average consumption. And that’s a good thing. The bad is that in a week, I lost ~ 0.1V; and so, I can’t imagine that the battery will last the promised 2 years.
Meanwhile, the battery status shows 88% (actual voltage is 3.09). I guess the DTH is dropping ‘-‘ sign somehow.