I would start by looking at @AdamV 's device Handler for the popp controller that I mentioned up thread. It has many of the same features and the original device was also intended to use the central scene command set, just like this one, so I expect there will be a lot of code you could reuse even though that exact device handler wonāt work.
You can also ask for help in the developers section of the forum. Lots of people there will be glad to assist.
Thanks @JDRoberts! Very helpful. My biggest concern was having the double and triple presses work with Rule Machine, but if RM supports up to 20 buttons per device, it looks like there will be several options. The number of use cases for these keep growing in my mind. Single press for patio lights, double press to include pathway lights, triple to include flood lightsā¦
Thanks to @JDRoberts, I had some of the prep code for the central scene notification in before I even received the switches. Since I was already specifically logging the sceneNumber and keyAttributes for the scene notifications, it was a simple matter to determine the values for all of the states. The DH handles both tap-2 and tap-3 for both the up and down cases, as well as the hold-up and hold-down cases. It also receives and handles a scene notification for a normal press up and press down.
The device handler adds a total of 6 buttons to handle all the tap 2/3 and hold-up/down cases. I put in virtual buttons for all the possible press states for testing. Maybe theyāll also come in handy for operational use?
Please let me know of any issues so far. Any and all suggestions or updates welcome.
Interestingly, the HomeSeer WS100+ looks and feels almost identical to the GE 12722, except for a lighter blue LED and lack of an air-gap switch on the WS100+. The WS100+ also has the same (annoying for some) short delay before the physical relay responds after a press.
I put together tables showing the button mappings, central scene notification parameters, and some comparison images with the GE 12722 at: http://darwinsden.com/homeseer100plus/
Hey, no problem! I only looked at the WS100+ on/off switch and havenāt even installed the WD100+ dimmer yet. Looks like weāve even agreed on which buttons to use, so anyone can change between handlers without even needing to update their RM rules. Thatās awesome.
Now that I know that the dimmer is in good hands, Iāll look at it another day. Heading to the patio. Itās five oāclock somewhere!
Anybody try the HS-PA100+, thatās one of the plugs. Iām interested as they list support for 1800 watts. I own a hot yoga studio where we use electric space heaters during the winter to quickly pump up the heat. So far they have tripped every smart plug I have tried. The Smartthings plugs report a 1500+ wattage draw when onā¦before tripping.
I put together a WD100+ Dimmer Device Handler that includes the virtual tap 2/3 and hold buttons from the WS100+ device handler - since it took only a few minutes to paste that code in from the WS100+ into the stock dimmer.
I also quickly tried @erocm1231ās WD100+ DH and it appeared to work fine for me. Definitely use his if you donāt want all the clutter from the virtual buttons. Iām not sure how useful the virtual buttons will be for most people anyway,
Iām not seeing a 0x98 in the raw description for these switches, so based on my understanding, they do not support secure inclusion.
I canāt speak for @erocm1231, but yes, the device handlers I put together for the WD100+ dimmer and WS100+ on/off switch do handle instant on/off status via central scene notification. Right now, youāll need these or other custom device handlers. The stock ST Z-Wave device handlers do not handle it right now.
Yes, the device type I created does support instant status.
Honestly, I do not know why z-wave devices are still being made without secure inclusion. Aeon is the only manufacturer that I know of that seems to be focused on this. It seems like all of their Gen 5 products (multisensor, siren, bulb, door sensor, etc.) support it.
IMO: Iām sure itās part of the zwave standard. Their whole basis is around interoperability. Allowing manufacturers to create devices that wouldnāt support older controllers would go against this mantra.
Has anyone seen an issue with the HomeSeer WS100+ switch where after an on press (or hold-on), it toggles on as requested, then off, then back on again? Iāll call it āthrashingā for lack of a better word. Iāve seen this happen now with the default Z-Wave switch device handler and now also with this custom DH. It will happen consistently for awhile, but after giving it a break and trying again later, I canāt seem to get the issue to trigger again. Until the next time it happensā¦
So Iāve been scouring the forums and have not been able to find a definitive answer to what I suspect is a very simple solution. I have installed the HS-WD100+ (which I love btw) and am using Darwinās device handler. How do I associate the double and triple tap buttons with actions (e.g., turning on dimmer as well as desk light, setting all room lights to 25% for movie watching, etcā¦)? Is that possible using RuleMachine or another smart app that Iām missing?
Thanks in advance for answering my noobie questions!
BTW, I paired one of the HS-WD100+ with a HS-WA100 and while the dimmer works, I could not get the companion switch working. Called Homeseer and they are sending me out another one incase the first was defective. If anyone has gotten the companion switch working, I would appreciate any insight you may have, as I am wondering if I did something wrong. Thanks!
The double, triple, and hold functions for each of the up/down cases are mapped to device buttons 1-6 (mapping here). Both my handler and @erocm1231ās use the same mappings. In Rule Machine, you can trigger actions using capability Button, selecting the appropriate button #, and choose āpushedā for the button pushed or held section.
I tested my WD100+ dimmer with a GE 3-way add-on switch and it worked fine for me, although I canāt recommend that anyone use a non-āblessedā configuration like this. 3-way switch wiring can be pretty confusing. Have you seen the Automated 3-way Switches: What should my wiring look like? (US Version) thread?