Try moving the hub closer to the fan, if even for a test. I have found the range to be crap on this.
It looks like you may have added the devices to smartthings BEFORE adding the handlers to IDE. You should not have to manually added any ID’s when done correctly. Please delete all the fan related Things in smartthings (do NOT remove the 3 device handlers in IDE). Then try to readd in ST and it should automatically associate your device with the correct handlers.
Yeah. Second that. I had to move my hub a few feet away from the fan to get it to work consistently.
Hey, new to the forum here (and to HA in general) but just wanted to say a HUGE thank you to all the guys who have been pioneers in this field and especially where the Zigbee Fan Controller is concerned.
Have been trying to purchase two via the KoF references, but all the numbers I’ve found on this site don’t seem to work (1-800-283-6513, 1-800-749-3269, 1-800-986-3460). They all indicate the circuits are busy and the call doesn’t go through. Is there another way to directly access the parts department to order these?
Thanks again to everyone for contributing to this. Looking forward to not having to push a ‘button’ to turn on my equipment soon.
See my reply in the other thread you posted.
Can this device be added to any fan or do I need to have hd fan?
The brand of the fan itself doesn’t really matter. Any fan with light kit that is meant to take a wireless receiver up in the canopy with wiring similar to what’s below should work. Your old remote may not work, depends on the frequency. But as mentioned above you can buy a remote or in-wall controller that works with this receiver too.
What if my fan never had an wireless option. Can I still use this setup? Sorry I should have mentioned that previously
Well, that depends. You haven’t given much detail about your fan.
What does the wiring in your fixture box look like?
Is there room in the fan canopy for the receiver?
It is a Hampton bay ceiling fan with light. Not sure if it has room for the receiver or not.
As for the wiring I would have to open it up and check. It has the pull chains for the fan speed and to turn the lights on/off
I’d say figure out if the wiring is compatible, and if it is then maybe take your chances on whether the receiver will fit.
Do you still have the installation manual? Or can you find it online? It’ll have a wiring diagram, save you the effort of opening up the canopy.
Has anyone else used the Wireless Wall Controller with this setup? Everything on my end works except for the fan control which is working well on the DTH but not the wall controller.
Thanks for all the help in this thread. Just ordered two controllers, no remotes (they are now $32 + shipping from the manufacturer, which is more expensive than HD). Total for the controllers was $92 including shipping. Looking forward to getting my fans automated.
My fan has a flat mounting piece that looks like your picture here
Where/how did you get the signee antenna out?
(Apologies if wrong place to ask, but this is my first post)
I’m a beginner in SmartThings, but I received my MR101Z from KoF. I ordered it because my fans and lights were on a single switch so thought it was a good solution for adding a dimmer. However, since I ordered it, I was able to easily separate light/fan control because the extra wire and switch were already there.
With the new setup, I’m thinking I’d be better off with the GE Fan switch and dimmer for the following reasons:
- I don’t care for having a remote
- Hampton Bay wall switch is battery operated. Amazon reviews say batteries die quickly.
- Reviewers say the Hampton Bay wall switch is low quality and not easy to use in the dark
- I have a 3-way setup and GE Fan Switch has a 3-way option
- Hampton Bay wall switch was $25 when I ordered the MR101Z, now it’s $35 and would need two
So my questions are:
- Could I control the MR101Z using z-wave switches? (even just on/off)
- Is the battery life really that terrible with the Hampton Bay wall switch?
- Is the Hampton Bay wall switch as low quality as Amazon reviews say?
- Am I missing a reason to stick with the MR101Z?
- I have an eBay account, but Is it okay to offer to sell it on this forum or is that forbidden?
I don’t think you’d want to combine this fan controller with z-wave switches. These types of in-ceiling modules assume the fan and light are both set to max, then the wireless module controls the current to both.
If you have separate load wires to your fan and light, with room for separate switches and neutral wires in the switch box, a z-wave fan controller and dimmer would seem to be the best bet.
I installed my MR101Z over a month ago and haven’t noticed any battery issues yet. I don’t find the remote to be particularly low quality. And it has multiple buttons on it, so yes it could be difficult to use in the dark but I’m not sure how many fan remotes would be easy to use in the dark.
You can offer yours for sale here. No rules against that.
I’m hoping someone can help me with my problem, I just installed the control unit in my fan and everything works as it is supposed to except for one small issue. The problem is when running the fan at its highest speed the light will turn off when you either change speeds or turn just the fan of. This occurs both in the app and while using the remote leading me to believe it is a hardware issue. Has anyone else had a similar problem? I have a harbor breeze fan if that helps at all.
Thanks @marktheknife for your answers. As for using z-wave switches with the MR101Z, I was thinking that there must be a way to control it “wirelessly” using z-wave switches and/or through the SmartThings hub.
More specifically, I’ve seen products labeled as “accessory switches” and “scene controllers” that suggested to me that I might be able to use them to remotely control the MR101Z. However, no one has mentioned them as a possible solution in these forums so it makes me doubt that idea or perhaps it is just a bad idea.
Yeah, there is one way i believe.
You’d wirenut the wires for your light and fan load directly to your line hot wire in the switchbox. Now the fan and light circuits are powered all the time and you have control with the zigbee fan/light controller.
Then you’d connect the z-wave switch to the hot wire and neutral wires, giving power to that switch but leaving it unconnected to any loads.
So now the switch can be seen by SmartThings, and you could create automations that when the switch is toggled, it could do something with your fan/light, or even something totally unrelated.
The question is, what additional functionality does this give you in your case?
@marktheknife Thanks again, I think you’ve given me enough to decide on which parts to order now. If you or anyone else is curious, I’m considering the ZWP Z-Wave Add On Auxiliary Switch which supports hold, double, and triple tap “scene” functions. Compared to the Hampton Bay wall switch, I’m thinking it will have:
- Traditional on/off functions for visitors, kids and night use
- No batteries (Also my issue with First Alert ZCombo smoke detectors)
- The scene functions could set fan speed or dimmer presets
- It is $20
- Fits standard multi-gang wallplates without sanding
Assuming the hold, double, and triple tap functions work how I think they should work, it is a pretty compelling solution. Then again, many new technologies don’t often work like I think they should More generally, I’m mostly hoping to just have on/off for daily use and for guests, relying on automations, phone apps, and Google Home voice commands for more specific functions.
Based on what you told me, I’m probably going to order dedicated z-wave fan switches and dimmers for the living room and master bedroom. If I decide to keep the MR101Z, it is probably going in the game room since it only has a single switch and the chains are difficult to reach due to a pool table.