Home Decorators Ceiling Fan/Light Controller MR101Z - First Impressions

Yeah pretty sure it comes with the in-canopy receiver that has zigbee module plus a wall remote.

Belkin WeMo switches use wifi, not zigbee. Iris smart plugs that use the zigbee home automation v1.2 profile will work with ST and repeat zigbee signals. Most iris devices had a first generation that used a proprietary zigbee profile, those won’t work with ST.

I have one of these sitting in the garage right now, planning to go in our stairwell and use WebCoRE to tie it to our thermostat’s fan. However, what I’m struggling with planning the install is that it’s too smart!

There’s currently a light fixture there controlled by three-way switches at the top and bottom of the staircase. I don’t mind adding the remote (probably at the top of the staircase), but it’d be nice to have the switches still control the light. Obviously, the fan needs continuous power, so when we get it mounted, the three-way switches need to be out of the loop.

I could use one wire for always-on power and the other wire as the “traveller” to put a smart switch at the top of the stair (good opportunity for Zigbee repeater!) and an add-on at the bottom. They’d control no actual load, but rely on the hub to relay their state to the fan light. However, that seems… needlessly complex. And of course, explaining why the switches don’t work if the Internet is down lowers the WAF a fair bit.

Alternatively, if I were to (somehow) wire the fan to be always powered, but bypass the controller for the lights, I’d still need the same set of switches to enable the light to be controlled. Has anyone else tied this to switches of any kind?

(My ideal would be to just remove the switches entirely and have a motion sensor in the stairwell control the light, but my wife doesn’t like fully-automated lights, so that might be a hard sell.)

I have one of the two fan controllers that has dropped off the mesh. It has been solid for 2-3 days prior to a few minutes ago. Using XCTU, here is a diagram of my ZigBee mesh.

The working fan is 92CF (Row 3, Col 1). The failing fan is 0A7F (Row 3, Col 2). You can see the working one is directly connected to the ST hub. The failing fan goes through an Iris 3210-L repeater. Oddly, that repeater is further from the hub than the fan itself; also the failing fan is the one 6 feet closer to the hub than the working fan.

So, I’ve got data, but no ability to derive meaning. Anyone see something useful here?

EDIT: I forced the hub to rebuild the ZigBee mesh and now the failing fan controller is directly connected to the controller and is one path to the working fan controller. Didn’t even know that was possible. I say one path because the working controller also can receive from a ThingShield that is several rooms further than the controller or fans. Very strange, at least to me.

I have got to try this out. Mine Zigbee mesh has been hit and miss.

So the existing 3-way switches control the power to the ceiling fan box? If yes, your idea to use one switch location to be an in-wall remote is great. The wireless remotes have been bullet proof for me, the zigbee mesh with ST not so much. You can always add the motion sensor in addition to the in-wall so you both get what you want,

+1 +1 +1 +99

After much experimenting, it seems the only ZigBee device giving trouble is the MR101Z. I’m beginning to feel that the device itself is the problem more than the mesh.

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An in-wall remote actually isn’t what I said, but it’s a really good idea. :slight_smile:

Most of the in-wall remotes I’m seeing come with their own receivers. I suspect that they’d also be able to control this fan via its existing receiver, but I’d prefer to know for sure. Also, the ones that have lights showing what speed they think the fan is going – do they get updates back from the fan? What happens if the fan speed is changed via the other remote / the app?

Or could I just get a second remote from HDC’s spare parts folks and stick them on the wall at top and bottom? How would the two remotes interact?

Yes, you could do that. The remotes have their own signla for the fan/light ser by dip switches. If both remotes are set to the same sequence of switches as the fan, then they will both work perfectly fine together.
You should be able to turn the light on at the top of the stairs, then turn it off at the bottom, as well as the fan. [quote=“MikeBishop, post:130, topic:81408”]
Also, the ones that have lights showing what speed they think the fan is going – do they get updates back from the fan?

The lights on the remote only come on when you’re changing fan speeds. They are not constant. As for getting uodates drom the fan, I’m pretty confident they do. But not 100%. I could check that when o get home today for you.[quote=“MikeBishop, post:130, topic:81408”]
Most of the in-wall remotes I’m seeing come with their own receivers. I suspect that they’d also be able to control this fan via its existing receiver, but I’d prefer to know for sure.

Yes, i got the in wall remotes. There’s no way to get them without recievers included, which is kind of a waste. But yes, they will work with the reciever already in the fan as long as the dip switches are set accordingly.

Sorry fro the noob question. I purchased the Gardinier fan today and installed it. I have created the DH from your code and connected with it in ST. But the button in my ST “my Home” section does not show the 4 speed buttons or the light or timer. I think im doing something wrong but cannot for the life of m

e figure it out. any help would be much appreciated.

never mind. i missed the all important sentence that said I had to install all 3 device handlers. did so and re paired and now working great. thank you very much

One last note. for Alexa integration with turning the “Fan-Light” off and on, it will not work with the hyphen. I re named it without the hyphen to “Fan light” and it would fine with Alexa now. Just thought I’d mention it in case you want to update the code to remove the hyphen for ease of use with Alexa. Thanks again. This is exactly what i needed for my kitchen.

Curious what your weCoRE piston looks like that tests communication. Does that test specifically communication to the fan? Please post the piston if you can.

As it appears other have experienced the fan sometime drops off and isn’t controllable from ST, but then will be working later without any other intervention.

Figured out the monitoring, we’ll see what I get, starting with a check every 15 minutes.

Your is much much more elegant than mine. I wasn’t planning this to be a long-term piston, so I just brute-forced some code that changes the light level (an arbitrary choice of some command that wouldn’t affect the motor) and checks to see if the command was executed. On failure, it logs it and makes an announcement. Not pretty.

P.S. After 2+ weeks, I’ve had no failures. I’ve left the ST hub 10 & 15 feet, respectively, under and to the side from the two fans. Despite plunging WAF, I’m reluctant to move the hub where it should be for justified fear of losing the fan connection.

need help

Installed the fan last friday, Later that day the antenna jumped a spark and blew it.
Took it back got the other one. Second fan had a second heat shrink tube over the antenna wire, but I didn’t want to risk it, I left it in the canopy. It worked for a day, then the zigbee stopped working. Then a few hours later, it worked again. Then a day later it stopped talking zigbee again. Ideas?

On another note, anyone have a lead for a replacement light? Would like to replace LED with one that is more “daylight” and more lumens.

This is the correct product… amiright?

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Yeah that’s the item that’s never been in stock, and it’s unclear if it ever will be.

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What have people found to be a good way to get the zigbee antenna out from inside the fan canopy, without damaging it while securing the canopy shroud back into place?

I just used a small diameter clear plastic straw/drink stirrer cut to about 1/4" in length to protect the antenna lead from damage by the canopy trim. It’s been working fine for a couple of months now and not noticeable until you get about 6" from it.

Could someone please help me with resetting these controllers? I bought two of them and neither are being detected by my smartthings hub. I tried the method of turning the breaker on and off five times but I never had the light flash afterwards