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Home Decorators Ceiling Fan/Light Controller MR101Z - First Impressions


(Rick Borjas) #17

So I tried ordering the receiver, they want a six digit UPC found on the manual or the box. I tried the model and they said they couldn’t find it using the model number.


(Dale C) #18

good grief, how can they expect any end user to keep a box with the UPC code? I didn’t see it in their online manual. I took a picture of the box for you with the UPC code 082392 432607

Here is the actual packing list with their reference numbers and item numbers for each part as well which they should be able fill the order with. However I don’t know which item is the receiver and which is the remote control


(Rick Borjas) #19

Thank you very much that worked the 12 digit UPC was required $38 each plus shipping


(Dale C) #20

I just posted in your device handler thread with a little more detail.


(Jimi Moore) #21

So I’ve never actually installed a custom device handler. I have github attached to my ST IDE. Can one of you point me to the best write up or video going over installing a device handler?


(Dale C) #22

If you need help installing this custom code @JDRoberts gave some excellent step-by-step instructions here. Remember you are installing a custom device handler NOT a custom smartapp.


(Jimi Moore) #23

Thanks @dalec! I figured it out and got it installed. Loving the fan so far!


(Jimi Moore) #24

Anyone having issues with DTH control of fan dropping off a few times a day? It doesn’t show as being offline or anything. It just won’t respond to any commands via the ST app.


(Dale C) #25

Not like that… I have had status issues only where the indications are out of sync but that is all being worked on. Here give this one a try [quote=“jimimoore, post:26, topic:81408”]
it’s my only Zigbee device.
[/quote]

Sure that is a possibility since you only have one so far. How far away is your Hub? And how difficult was it to pair originally?


(Jimi Moore) #26

Ok. Well other than the dropouts the DTH is working great for me. My fan is a floor above my hub (although not terribly far away) and it’s my only Zigbee device. Wonder if that’s the issue?


(Dale C) #27

Approximately how many feet away is the ceiling fan from the Hub? Use a tape measure but you don’t need to be exact but approximately

OH YEAH I FORGOT - Did you pull the Zigbee antenna (it’s the white one) out from under the fan cowl cover and pin it up to your ceiling?

Here is a good read on wireless range and repeaters for SmartThings


(Triosinal) #28

Thanks so much for this dalec, I’ve been waiting for proper ceiling fan control for some time.

Do you know what the specs are on the lighting control? I skimmed through the fan instruction manual and didn’t see it anywhere; hopefully it can dim dimmable LEDs?

This is so awesome. I’ll be buying in on this myself soon.


(Dale C) #29

Watch my video, you will see it dimming my LED’s in the fan. I’m sure there may be some LED’s it might not be compatible with because dimmable LED’s can be finicky.


(Jimi Moore) #31

Yeah. I did. Thanks for for the other tips.

I wonder if a few of these Zigbee bulbs (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOL16K0) would help expand (repeat) my Zigbee footprint and perhaps resolve my intermittent connectivity issues?

When the fan is unresponsive to button presses within ST is there a way for me to check the IDE to discern whether it has an active connection to the fan (or any other helpful info)?


(Dale C) #32

You can see in the IDE under MyDevices the status of a device and the Last Activity. But the new mobile app can also tell you this now. If you have the Device Health enabled it is suppose to flag you when a device is no longer available. In you mobile app you can check this under the More, Additional Features heading. You can do a search here in the forums and some people turn this off because of other issues but I can’t remember why.

The GE Link bulb should be OK, I have about 10 of these and a couple things to consider is when someone flips off the light it can’t be repeating and they do drop off the network from time to time and need to be reset by flipping the light switch 5 times , on then off every two seconds.

Do a search here in the forums on the Lowe’s Iris smartplug. I heard that it is supposed to not only do Zigbee but also Zwave. I got one of those for my house to boost both. But it’s the newer version that does it not the first generation I think.

In the IDE you can also watch the devices Logging to see if its passing information.


(Dale C) #33

I have been pleased with the latest changes I made with the device handler. It has a new look and feel with the fan control as the primary interface. It works for 90% of what I want so it’s definitely ready for distribution but still working out some additional features to make it more configurable for others. Wish there was a way to store a state so it could be used in some logic control…

Update: my device coding buddies Kevin and Sticks have come through and shown me how easy it really is to store the last state and make it happen the way I want.


#34

Bulbs are one of those “maybe, maybe not” issues. See the bulb FAQ ( this is a clickable link)

And the GE links in particular have their own firmware issues and tend to drop off the network more than any other zigbee brand, so I definitely wouldn’t start with those. :scream: Eco-smart or Cree would be a better one to try.

All of that said, in the US many community members like the Lowe’s iris pocket socket. It’s a reliable zigbee repeater.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Iris-120-Volt-White-Smart-Plug/999925330

Whatever repeating device you choose, after you have it paired and in place, you want to get the fan to update its neighbor table so it will use the new repeater.

To initiate this process, you do a “network heal.” For zigbee devices, that means taking the hub off power (including removing any batteries) and leaving it off power for at least 15 minutes. Leave the other zigbee devices on power. This will cause the other devices to go into “panic mode” because they can’t reach the hub. Then when the hub comes back on power all the devices will rebuild their individual neighbor tables. This process can take a little while, so you may not see the full effect until the next day.


(Dale C) #35

@JDRoberts I LOVE IT ! You are the guru my friend :slight_smile:

I thought I had read somewhere that the Iris plug was zigbee and zwave repeating but can’t find it. Maybe it was my wishful thinking there was a device that did both


#36

Yes, it’s designed to do both, but community members have reported various issues with the zwave repeater part of the iris device. But the zigbee seems to work fine. :sunglasses:

See the article in the community – created wiki on repeaters:

http://thingsthataresmart.wiki/index.php?title=Repeaters


#37

I forgot to mention one thing specific to fans. As I understand it, in this case the smartthings hub is on a lower floor.

So that means signal has to go up through the floor past the fan casing and then reach the receiving antenna on the device.

I understand that you have run the antenna out of the fan canopy so it’s just flat on the ceiling, right?

Even so, I’ll bet that there are times when the signal is blocked by the fan blade and times when it is not. Just depending on where the fan stops or if the fan is moving.

Imagine that one person is sitting in a chair in the room with the fan looking up at the antenna. And there is a tiny display on the antenna that is displaying A letter of the alphabet.

Now imagine that there is another person on the floor below, where the hub is, and they are holding a flashlight and they are shining the light up through A hole in the floor towards the fan.

There will be moments when the letter on the display is very easy to read, because the light is hitting it straight on. But there will be other moments when the letter will be almost impossible to read, because the fan blade is blocking the light.

And if the fan is moving, the situation is constantly changing.

That’s what’s going on when you’re trying to get signal between the zigbee antenna on the fan controller and the hub down below. It can be really tricky, and can lead to intermittent failures. (Moving fans are almost always included on exams in college network engineering classes. :wink:)

If the fan blades are metal, the problem is 50 times worse.

Anyway, another thing to consider is whether you need to bounce signal sideways in order to try to get it to the fan antenna.

You may need to do some experimenting to find the best positioning for a repeater to get signal to the fan. Just one of those things. :sunglasses: