Hampton Bay Zigbee Fan controller

Thanks all - I definitely like the Hampton Bay in-wall switch because it has ALL the buttons on it. Useful for guests, and it’s just…the right way to go IMO. As far as I know there are no other single-gang smart switches out there that have fan+light control buttons. (there should be by now!)

Holy smokes @ the Orvibo 7 button scene controller! When did this come out?

Orvibo run a closed system. Although it is Zigbee, its not fully compliant.

Is this the latest device handler?

Owner: dcoffing
Name: KOF-CeilingFan

Both my kits came in and got everything working. Thanks to all the hard work of many others in this thread!

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Anyone on here got this working on a harbor breeze fan? My mind fudged up Hampton bay for harbor breeze and now I’m trying to salvage the smart controller. My fan only has a load and neutral wire and that controls the light as well. I capped the controllers extra light wire.

Do you mean your fan itself has no blue wire (or possibly a second black wire) that provides power directly to the light kit? Or your fan only has a black and white feeding it from the switch?

The brand of fan doesn’t matter. I use this controller on 3 Harbor Breeze fans. But if you don’t have a separate load wire on your fan for the light kit, you can’t use this controller. You “could” run a new wire through the motor housing to the light kit and isolate it.

Can you post some pics?

Absolutely, thanks for opting to help. The fan itself has no blue wire. It has only black, white, and green. It is tied to the hot pole of a switch so that the toggle switch doesn’t turn off the fan, it’s always on and controlled by remote. I tried tying in the controller’s blue wire to the motor black as well as leaving it capped off. The controller will only turn the light on when the fan is set to the highest speed (I’m guessing voltage confusion issue). I’m thinking of trying to follow the motor load wire and see if it splits off to the light kit somewhere hidden.


Here are a few more pics once the fan is torn open:

I’m guessing the top capped black wire is an antenna.

The three wires coming out the top from picture 1 end in this white sleeve. One black and white wire go to the mass connector (goes into a controller looking circuit board)
20180308_105057

The other black wire (antenna I think) goes into this box I’m pointing at and hits another circuit board.
20180308_105120

So actually going in to the motor/light assembly I have 5 wires:
A braided black
A braided white
A red, a gray, and a yellow
20180308_105157

This is where I get stuck. I don’t want to get into the motor if I don’t have to but we shall see.
Any help is appreciated. I’d love to get this to work!

The big black thing on top is the old built-in controller. You would have to replace that with this controller. Otherwise, nothing will work since the controller that is built in is expecting to have power all the time. Also, I am guessing you will run into the issue I have with the Hampton Bay controller for my built-in controller on a Hunter Fan. It uses capacitive control which is incompatible with the Hampton Bay.

This looks exactly like the Hunter setup so I am guessing it is made by them – the white plug is identical. If you google you will find all the purposes for the wires but like I said above, I think it is a dead end with this fan and the controller. That’s why I am looking at BOND as an alternate and hoping it matures enough. At least with BOND I can use the existing controller and not worry about these issues.

LMK if you want more details, etc.

-Warren

Yeah I was looking at bond and fearing this controller wouldn’t work. Thanks for confirming my fear. I traced the wires out and the light kit ends up using a 2 wire setup, not just a blue. Guess I’ll wait on Team Bond to integrate smartthings :frowning:

BTW, here is the research I based my (ultimately failed) work on:

You basically would be cutting off the existing controller just before the white connector (I did this so I could easily unplug things) and wiring the Hampton Bay controller in per the functions for each wire. He talks about using a cap to make things work for him but for me that didn’t seem to help or I had the wrong size cap. If the fan isn’t capacitive controlled then it might work but if you crack open the old controller and see several big caps then you are, in my guess, SOL. Good news is that if you cut the wires and rewire it and it doesn’t work then you can always just use wire nuts to reconnect the old controller to put things back.

Although some complain about BOND being a dumb device that doesn’t know states, if it gets the job done, it works and you don’t have to rewire anything. But you won’t be able to tell if the fan is on or off in ST just yet (though you can use Alexa voice control) but regardless you can do some IFTTT control and you can of course blindly turn it off or on. I was up and running with BOND in about 20 minutes (using their app anyway).

-Warren

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Eeesh! I was not expecting to see that integrated controller. As @LLwarrenP said, it may not be worth the effort to try to bypass (and may not even work if you do).

I ran into this exact issue. Bypassing the plug was easy.
You’ll need to run a new wire through your downrod for the light, looks like.

There is also a module you can just plug in that bypasses it but gives the fan the ability to reverse.

Hmm, interesting. Makes me want to give it another try. My issue was that after getting the Z-wave portion working I was able to control the fan and light but the fan makes a loud humming noise. When it is with the normal capacitive control it is dead silent.

With this module it seems like you would still need to modify the wiring though, no?

-Warren

Man that sounds so nice until I get to that last line about not having another hot wire coming from the house. Can anyone recommend a specific dumb fan I can use the Hampton bay zigbee controller with so it’s not a waste?

You only need one hot wire. The controller will take care of powering the fan and light. You will just need to run another wire, from the controller, connected to the light output, down the downrod, to connect power to the light. You’ll already have neutral there.

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I just found this thread. I would like to ask some silly question that may have been answered in the previous 638+ replies, but I only read about half of them so my apologies.

  1. The retail kit appears to be out at HD online again.
  2. I am looking into installing a new fan in my sitting room so that should be a straightforward install.
  3. I have 4 other fans throughout my house where 3 have wall switches and 1 is remote controlled. Can I use the retail kit and still use the wall switch? Will the wall switch have to be left on to control the fan with ST, or is there a way to use both successfully? If I can’t what should be done with the wall switch?

It usually is. You can wait, or order the spare parts from King of Fans.

Should be easy, just make sure you get one that has space for a controller above the downrod.

Options with the wall switches:

  1. Remove the switch and hardwire power to on. Turning power off at the switch takes the receiver offline.
  2. Leave the switch and add a cover so it can’t be accidentally flipped off. Then you still have convenient control if you need to reset the receiver, or turn things off if ST stops working.
  3. Remove the switch and replace with a smart switch / scene controller, but still hardwire power to the light. This gives you the “default” control of flicking a switch on the wall but keeps power on at the receiver.

And remember you probably need to add a Zigbee repeater outlet in the same room to maintain a good signal at the receiver.

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