Since you have smart plugs that are repeaters I would try removing the bulbs in the off chance that your fan controller is trying to repeat through them.
Final question, have you done a mesh rebuild after adding the repeaters? If you haven’t, the fans won’t try using them until a mesh rebuild is done.
Make sure that you pull the batteries from the hub (if you have a V2 hub) and leave all the ZIGBEE devices powered up. Per another community member, it can take hours for a rebuild so maybe do it before you call it a night tonight and let it work its magic while you sleep?
I have installed EIGHT of these controllers (with the wireless wall switch - so I can control via ST or ‘normally’). Some of them work without any problem. Some of them seem to be flakey.
I tried moving the hub closer to two of the fans that were flakey (that is what I had to do when I initially paired them) and it didn’t seem to make a difference.
You think re-building the zigbee mesh will do the trick? These are the only zigbee devices I have, so I can’t imagine my mesh is very ‘strong.’ Do I need a repeater?
Does ‘power on’ mean ‘turned on’ or just ‘circuit on’?
When I read all the threads before I purchased my 2 units I saw a pattern. Unless the fan controller is in the same room and relatively close to the hub, you are probably going to need a repeater. So I would guess that you probably need a few repeaters with 8 of these controllers in your system.
Does ‘power on’ mean ‘turned on’ or just ‘circuit on’?
I am assuming you are referring to the ZigBee devices when rebuilding the mesh? If so, they only need to have power to them. It doesn’t matter if the fan or light is turned on during the rebuild.
Get some repeaters, add them to Smartthings, then do the ZigBee mesh rebuild and see how the fan controllers work. I’m thinking that should help.
In my system, the controller that is in the same room as the Smartthings hub is flawless. The one that is in our bedroom and uses a repeater will sometimes get confused and drop off the network after a power failure. This may or may not be the fault of the controller. I flipped the breaker this weekend to change out a ground fault receptacle and my recently added Keen Vent (a ZigBee device) had dropped off the network. I’m now wondering if my issue of the controller dropping off the network after a power failure is my repeater. One of these days I’ll pick up a plug at Lowes and swap out the Peanut Plug and see if that fixes it.
Just moving the hub closer to the flakey devices may not make a difference. You’d need to unplug the hub for 15 mins to allow that zigbee mesh heal to occur (which could take several hours to actually complete) so that the devices realize they are closer to the hub and update their routing.
Anything that is battery powered is almost always not a repeater. Light bulbs are general very poor repeaters. If it plugs into the wall, it is probably a repeater.
An FYI… if anyone gets to this point in the thread and is still having problems getting it to pair. For me, it was weird… I tried the factory reset probably about 6 times. It wouldn’t take. After about the 6th time I got frustrated and went and got a beer…the light/fan was still on. About 2 minutes or so later, I was on the computer searching for other threads and without me having done anything, the lights blinked 3 times and it immediately paired in the app.
So, if you’re having problems with the factory reset, maybe just give it a few minutes for the factory reset to cycle through.
After you add the DTH, you will have several devices that you can expose to Alexa the same as you would any other device. Simply go to the Alexa SmartApp and add the 4 devices for fan speed, the main fan control and then the dimmer for the light.
I’m gathering info to do all this, but this is what I have still:
I have a Hampton bay fan with remote control.
The electrician installed a dumb stack switch on wall to control. Top toggle controls fan (on/off only), the remote controls fan speed. The bottom toggle controls the lights on/off, the remote light button is disabled, since the wall switch & fan is wired to have only wall switch control the Light.
Do you have to have the switch on to get the fan to turn on by the remote? If so, I would suspect that you have 2 live wires, one coming from each switch, to the fan. Then the fan is connected to a common neutral. The remote you have controls the fan via a receiver that is wired in above the fan. This is the one you would replace with the Zigbee one. You would then not be able to use either switch on the wall. You would use one of the two lives from the switches to go to the line on the Zigbee controller.
Note that there’s a good chance you can set the DIP switches so you can use the old remote with the new receiver; it just wouldn’t give you control of the med-hi fan speed, since there’s no button for that.
Just wanted to revive the thread before the end of the year
Actually I wanted to mention that the Hampton Bay controller shows up irregularly on Ebay and Amazon marketplace for as little as $30. I just picked up three over a couple of weeks, and got them working with a minimum of drama. Thanks to the authors and maintaners.
I’m looking for some insight on an odd issue I am seeing with my controller. This week, I have a power outage and one of my KOF controllers stopped responding. all the others work. I re-paired the deive to the hub but now, it only shows a “Zigbee dimmer” device and not the KOF devices I expected. The dimmer is able to control the light but the fan device no longer appears.
from the remote,everything works, fan speed and light.
