tgauchat
(ActionTiles.com co-founder Terry @ActionTiles; GitHub: @cosmicpuppy)
21
There is indeed some substantial difference, and, unfortunately, I haven’t been able to understand the difference.
However, the GE 4560x threads (this following one in particular, explain the difference, including input from SmartThings firmware / device engineers: I think you’ll find the explanation there (and you can Private Message the relevant SmartThings engineers for more details or questions)…
That particular thread was interesting because it’s author, @geko was suddenly able to get a GE 45600 working … for a while; when all other attempts had failed. Diagnosing why it stopped working lead to the detailed explanations of the nature of the GE 45600 remote series and why SmartThings can’t configure or, be configured, … despite the partially similar Aeon Labs Aeotect Minimote (and pals) and Enerwave 7-Button wall pad, and the 3-Button wall scene controller (I forget the brand).
So – sure, there’s still a small possibility you’ll discover something that many folks haven’t. And there’s a theory you can program the GE remotes using a Vera hub and then use them with SmartThings.
In the meantime … I velcro Aeon Minimotes (equivalent to 8-Buttons), which works fine for me.
And, we are all hoping and hoping that multi-button wall switches in ZigBee or new Z-Wave get manufactured by somebody. Aeon Labs is a very good candidate to introduce such a product, as they are in current production of new gear.
We crossposted. Read my post 20 just above yours. Once you know the ST hub supports association but not controller replication, and the old GE scene controllers support controller replication but not association, everything is clear. Or at least clearer. even if you don’t know exactly what those commands do, the discrepancy is obvious, so if someone at ST says that discrepancy is why they don’t work together, it should make sense.
Also, the multi level switch is important because that’s how you get steps.
I just figured the key thing I was missing here (and the reason why this was doomed from the get-go) - I was operating under assumption that I was trying to control z-wave devices with a z-wave secondary controller, but that is not actually the case here. Most of my devices (light bulbs) are actually ZigBee, which means much of what I was trying to do (have 45631 control lights directly) would never work (and why Vera is not going to work either).
Ok, so I do need for controller to talk to ST rather than bypass it. Back to drawing board here :-/
Makes sense. And, yeah, zigbee light bulbs are a huge reason why formerly Zwave-only people jump ship to a multi protocol platform.
1 Like
tgauchat
(ActionTiles.com co-founder Terry @ActionTiles; GitHub: @cosmicpuppy)
25
Yup… I still use my 45631 every day for a bunch of Z-Wave plug-in appliance and dimmer modules.
But I use my Z-Wave Aeon Minimotes, also every day, to control both Z-Wave and ZigBee outlets and bulbs (the bulbs are a mix of Hues and GE Link’s, both connected to SmartThings by way of the Hue Bridge – it is a tad safer than linking the bulbs directly to the SmartHub, and lets any Hue apps (there are dozens) be used as a local backup controller).
tgauchat
(ActionTiles.com co-founder Terry @ActionTiles; GitHub: @cosmicpuppy)
27
To link Hue bulbs directly to SmartThings, they need to be changed to a ZigBee frequency that is compatible with the SmartHub.
Resetting them back to Hue Bridge compatibility (if you change your mind, or wish to resell or need warranty service on the bulbs) is difficult or impossible.
Furthermore, a Hue Bridge has a published API that dozens of front-end Apps (including some Window 8 native apps) works with, so you get complete control over the Hues (and GE Link, etc, whatever you’ve connected to the Hue Bridge) even if ST is down.