I’ve gone through the posts on this switch and have not found this issue. Before installing the switch, I confirmed the line and load wires with a no-contact sensor. I’ve got the neutral wire connected to the rest of the neutrals in the box and to the switch.
With the circuit powered on, I have constant power to the load wire (measured at the switch and at the ceiling with the fan removed) no matter if the switch is off or on. I was puzzled by the blue LED and could not tell if the switch should be “off” if the LED is off or constantly on, but I tried it both ways and with all other settings based on the LED blink speed and I have constant power to my load wire.
Well, this insane. I just exchanged the switch at Lowes and my replacement is behaving the same way. This makes no sense to me, and I guess I will try reaching out to their tech support tomorrow. Could there be any way to get this behavior if the neutral bundle is not fully connected? That is the only thing I did not re-check and like a lot of folks, it is a tight mess of wires in the back of my box.
If the neutral isn’t connected it likely wouldn’t fire up at all or When you turned it ‘off’ it wouldn’t turn back on. Did you try to pair it to ST? I’m curious if the rest of the electronics in the controller are operating as expected. If so it points to the line and load being bridged or a bad switch as @rontalley mentioned. If two are doing the same thing though - I’d lean on it being a wiring issue…
Yes, I’ve got a no-contact detector and a multimeter -I’ve not used the multimeter yet. I took out the GE switch and put in a conventional single pole switch and everything works as it should based on the no-contact meter telling me that the load wire has no power when the mechanical switch is off and does have power when the switch is on. I called GE tech support and they confirmed what I described to them as how the switch should be working and how I have it wired.
They also told me that the LED on the switch tells you nothing about when the switch is “off” but that a single tap of the bottom rocker should turn the switch off. I’m not sure that is accurate based on the included manual.
Well, I’m an idiot. Just tested w/ my multimeter and sure enough, things are off when they should be…guess the no contact tester was picking up enough current to give me a false positive.
It took a little getting used to turning “off” the GE switches. Most people have a tendency to hold the down rocker instead of tapping it down. Not even going to get into the double tapping up/down which acts as buttons for other automation uses.