So I found from the deal thread that Lowes was clearing out their old Iris GE switches. I picked up 4 of the GE-45639. The problem is they can’t be used with LEDs or CFLs since they don’t use a neural wire. Not sure what I should do with them. I can return them but wasn’t sure if there is something else I could do with them. Or anyone here would want them.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_339578-1353-45639___?productId=3707738&pl=1&Ntt=iris
They use a Neutral wire. Check out the documentation:
http://www.lowes.com/campaign/iris/pdf/45639%20manual%20ENG.pdf
I have several of these, and all my lights are LED. Been using this switch for well over a year and a half without any issues. All are controlling at least 4-6 PAR30 LED can lights (old Utilitech Lowes ones).
You don’t have problems with the bulb not shutting all the way off? Mine runs at dim level, I guess because it is an air gap switch. So it always has power going through it, enough to light LED since it doesn’t need much.
On the newer switch there is a slot to tap in to the neural wire, which the newer ones work fine. I don’t see that on the old switch.
I have it wired how it is shown. With black “line” from the box and the black “load” going to the bulb, grounded of course. It does show the bulb in the pictures and after it get power it goes to neural, I don’t know how the light fixture is wired up.
I wondered if the older LEDs used more power to work, enough that wouldn’t dim when a small amount of power goes through them.
I have one of the old switches wired up with incandescent bulbs. It works perfectly.
thanks for the feedback. It would be nice to use these with LEDs.
…something to think about. If your resistance is collectively enough than you will not experience the issue that Kevin is experiencing. If I am not mistaken one of the issues with the previous generation switches was that they are unable to control bulbs at low resistance levels. I’ve seen that figure quoted somewhere before but forgot where I read it.
When checking out the documentation you provided it seems to dispute what you are saying…unless I missed something?
“This switch is designed for use only with permanently
installed incandescent fixtures. Do not use it to
control fluorescent lighting, transformer supplied
lighting/appliances or receptacles. The incandescent
lighting controlled by this dimmer switch must not
exceed 600 watts.”
“5. There are four screw terminals on the 45612 switch; these are
marked LINE (Hot), LOAD, GROUND and TRAVELER. The Traveler
terminal is only used for 3-way or 4-way wiring and should
remain insulated if the 45612 is being installed in a 2-way
system (one switch & one load). Match these screw terminals
to the wires connected to the existing switch. (Do Not remove
the tape over the terminal if you are not using the traveler
connection)”
I am not using it as a 3 or 4 way. Just one switch. So I don’t have a 45612
Without the neutral the zwave radio/builtin little blue LED light don’t have a way to neutral unless they go through the bulb first.
I’d guess for it to work I’d need a special LED bulb. The dimmable ones I got a lowes don’t work. They dim fine but don’t shut off.
I don’t use this switch in any 3 or 4 way situations, so the 45612 aux switch doesn’t come into play.
Absolutely correct.
I wonder if 4 - 60 watt (LED) bulbs are enough. I have a 2 fans with 4 bulbs, the fan is on a different switch.
It looks like 2xPhilips 433227 bulbs will work. 1 bulb seemed to light up still. Looks like I can use these switches after all!
Did you get to use The switches?
I am using them with the Philips bulbs