was trying to install a 12722 and 12723 in a 3 way switch setup. based on the wiring in the house and the sample config pics listed here i believe my current setup matches either option 7 or 8 which i understand will not allow the use of the GE 12722 and 12723 together but would it be possible to wire the 12722 and a Linear WT00Z for the three way switch?
I would go with the both Linear switches for association. GE and Linear will give you virtual association with is not ideal.
You can also go with the new z-wave plus for new association class as well.
Whichever way you are going to pick. Know that you have to get to the light fixture box and reconfigure your wiring due to neutral.
Do you have one neutral in one box? Or no neutral in any box?
Are you talking about these wiring diagrams?
It looks like all of these options have a neutral to each box.
In this case common is neutral?
If so, you are good to go with any switches.
Option 7 and 8 neutral at fixture.
I understand now, they are white, but not neutral
You can tell by counting wires, at least 3 wires are needed for a 3 way, 4 wires are needed when you include neutral.
It’s the reason why he wanted to go this route due to lack of neutral and only 3 wires to the second switch.
Edit Later in Day: Wiring gets even more complicated than that! While some of my switch boxes have no neutrals at all, some switch boxes have a neutral for that circuit, AND neutrals for other circuits, like a circuit for the next room over. Why would this be?
Got it, I have one old school halogen flood light controlled by an older version of a GE dimming switch that does NOT require a nuetral. But that old school GE dimming switch does NOT play nice with newer LED lights.
In general GE and Linear dimming switches all require a neutral.
Just an FYI, the linear AUX dimming switch can directly control GE swtiches/Dimmers through zwave association.
I have this setup, one linear AUX one on side of a 3 way and a GE dimmer on the other side of the 3 way.
I did this because the 3 ways in my house were wired with only one of the 2 boxes getting a neutral.
I used the traveler wire to send neutral to the second box, this way both boxes have neutral.
Then the linear AUX wirelessly controls the GE dimming switch.
Looking at the diagrams again, I realize that the wiring can get even more complicated
Adding a neutral to each box can actually seem to add 2 wires to each box. See wiring diagram option 1. Each neutral in each box appears twice, once incoming and once outgoing, I say “seem” because theoretically the neutral could be tied together out of sight behind the box and then you only see one wire in the box.
So in the diagram, there appears to be 5 wires in total in each box, not just the minimum of 3 needed for a 3 way, which is incoming power (1), outgoing power (2) and traveler (3). There are 2 additional wires, incoming neutral and outgoing neutral.
The easy answer would be. Depending on how many renovations been done to the house. Most electricians would pick the easiest and fastest route. It’s a triangle theory
Thanks! Yes, I was wondering,
so you are saying it is as simple as, “hey I need a neutral over here, is there one nearby that I can pigtail to?”
No, that’s not what I said. In fact it’s a safety and fire hazard to share neutral with another circuit breaker. What I meant to say is that electricians will run the power romex to the location where time and money is lowest. Sorry for not making it clear.
Thanks for the warning. Now that I think about it I am not 100% sure what wires were shared, it was a while ago.
But it sounds like I should double check, and if neutrals are shared I should call in an electrician.
Sooo…I’m gonna put this on the back burner for now