Fibaro 2 Dimmer (212 not 211)

Thanks for the reply.

Yes I could use smart bulb, but these are outside lights and this is Finland with pretty cold winters so I dont know how often I would need to buy new smart bulbs due to weather conditions.

I have 4 x 4w bulbs and they are just flickering. Which configuration settings do I need to set to turn dimming off?
Is it parameter 32 set to 1 for on/off?

(parameterNumber: 20, size: 1, scaledConfigurationValue: 1), // Enable Dimmer to work with Toggle Switch
(parameterNumber: 26, size: 1, scaledConfigurationValue: 1), // S2 can control dimmer as well
(parameterNumber: 32, size: 1, scaledConfigurationValue: 1), // On/Off Mode (0=Dimmer,1=On/Off,2=Auto)
(parameterNumber: 35, size: 1, scaledConfigurationValue: 1), // Auto Calibration (0=No after Power On, 1=On First Power On, 2=On Each Power On)

Hi

I’m afraid it won’t make any difference - without a Bypass 2 you don’t have enough load for the dimmer to properly ‘switch off’.

AFAIK the dimmer changes the lead, or tail, of the AC wave to reduce the current going to the load. However, it has unpredictable effects on any load under 50w. Unlike a relay, it never truly switches off, regardless of parameter.

I must have something else on my load (although I am pretty sure I don’t) as I have 4 x 4w (non dimmable LED bulbs) using auto configuration on standard on/off switch and they work as on off lights perfectly. I am not saying you aren’t correct just that in my setup it does work for low load LED’s without flicker, maybe I have something going on I am not sure about. I do have a secondary live wire going off the L port to another circuit but I don’t think that should make a difference.

My recommendation… move to Florida where you also don’t need to worry about the cold or importing SmartThings products :slight_smile:

The connected LEDs will generally have the same performance as standard LEDs, but they need to be in an outdoor rated fixture. There might be a separate interference issue if you have super thick, insulated walls blocking the bulbs from connecting with the Hub or wifi router (depending on what kind of bulb you use).

Thanks, that is what I thought. I’ll get a bypass ordered when they come back in stock at Vesternet.

Hi Not sure if this is the right thread (Completely new to this). But having read your threads I took the plunge and brought an FGD212. I’ve just moved into a new build house but struggled to install it into a simple 2 way lighting system in my hall way with a Switch (B) at the bottom of my stairs and Switch (A) at the top of my stairs - based on the diagram below. But I couldn’t get it to work properly. I’ve seen several diagrams / variations and so I wondered if anyone could point me in the right direction. As its a new build the last thing I want is to have to run new wires, so assumed with the FGD212 I could easily wire it in behind one of the switches using a 2 wire (no neutral) configuration.

The good news is that as a test I wired it into one of my bedroom switch where its a simple 1 gang 1 light set-up and it works fine:) .

I Haven’t played around with any code at the moment as that is currently beyond my level of expertise, so hope the basics will work as is?

Thank you so much…

Hi Neil, Assuming you 2way is conventional you will have a 3core and earth cable between the switches with a additional 2 core and earth at one of them. If so just put the dimmer in the switch with the 2 core. the brown from the 2 core is probably your permanent supply. connect that to ‘L’ connect the blue to the wavey line with the arrow. Leave the 3core cables as they were but move the one from the common to S1 or Sx then connect the common from the switch to the S terminal you haven’t used. and don’t forget to link Sx and N out.
That Should then work no problems. If you are using conventional switches toggle them back after any input so they always sit in the off positon.
Jumped on a bit of assumption here that your in the uk, regarding colours and convention. But the switching side should still apply.

Your assumption is spot on and thank you so much…By the sounds of it I think I went wrong by trying to install it on the wrong switch.

I’ll give it a try today and see how I get on…

Really appreciate such a quick reply,
Regards

Neil

Hi Paul,

Sorry to be a pain, but tt seems my second switch has 3 cable;

Grey to L1 (So Light)
Brown to L2 (Perm Live)
Black to Common

So am I right in saying that I can connect;

Switch | Fibaro
Grey to Wavey line (Load)
Brown to Live
L2 to Link too Live as well
Black to Sx
C to S1

As far as I know 3 wires between the 2 switches that connect L1, L2 and Common together is standard configuration…Plus the house was only built 3 months ago…

Thank you,

Neil

Well, following the following diagram I appeared to have got it to work, although Switch B now doesn’t do anything. So am I right in saying that I need to change the configuration of the Dimmer to accept the fact that S2 is acting as Switch B within the 2 way switching circuit?

If so, how easy is that? …Given I am a complete novice:)

Thank you,

Neil

Are you using my code? It’s at the top of the thread. Should work after that.

I’m not as ive just started out and hence on a big learning curve.

I did see the thread but didn’t know how to do it…So any guidance would be very much appreciated:)?

Thank you,

Neil

Neil,
You should be able to get it working of Just the s1 input if you don’t want to change the code,from both switches.
Are your 2 switches both 1g? and do you have the 2core and 3core cable at one? If so are the 2core cables terminated in L1 and L2 both with a wire from the 3core?
If not let me know what you do have and I can guide you through it. Or not if you are happy to change dimmer settings.
You need to connect the common at the far switch to Sx,
The strappers then connect L1 and L2 together between the switches. with the common from the local switch connecting to S1.
That is the switching side of things done.
Just the feed (permanent) to connect to L and the switch wire to the load(wavy line).
If you don’t have the extra 2core cable, you won’t be able to do it at the switches.

This is how its currently wired:

So Switch A has;

2 Brown wires to L1
Grey and Blue wires to L2
Black to C

Switch B has:

1xBrown to L1
1xGreat to L2
1xBlack to C

I’ve currently got it wired as per my previous diagram at the moment and it works ok except that Switch B doesn’t obviously work. So given I’m new to this, I take you’d advice as to whether its easier to change the code (I have absolutely no idea where to start with this one…LOL) or just to rewire again?

Regards

Neil

Great,
so blue wire to load,
brown that is in the same cable as the blue to L ( If you have a tester check this is the permanent supply)
put the black to Sx
then link from common to S1
the other brown and the grey cable stay in L1 and L2

keep switch 2 as it is.

If this doesn’t work switch the blue and brown around as the permanent is probably just the other way on the 2 core cable.

Brilliant, that looks simple…I’ll give it a try in the morning when there’s some light again…

Thank you so much, really appreciated:)

Smartthings was a nightmare at the start but finally it seems to be settling down and as a result I am slowly adding devices…Talking of which, do you think its sensible going down the Fibaro dimmer route with all my lights / switches or do you think its worth waiting a bit to see whether a fully compatible 2 wire dimmer switch is produced / released?

Wow…I finally got it to work. In the end I had to use the custom code so I could wire Switch A to S1 and Switch B to S2…Working like a treat now…

Basically used this wiring configuration and then the custom code pasted at the start of the thread…

Thank you so much for all your help, got their in the end:)

Right so having finally got one Fibaro Dimmer to work in a 2 way lighting system I thought I better try and document the whole process, start to finish as I am guessing new users like me might find it useful. It’s a only a draft and is based on my experience, but I have one fully functioning Fibaro FGD212 based on the process I’ve outlined in the attached documents:

Hopefully this link works as i am new to dropbox as well…LOL

Thoughts, comments, feedback much appreciated given I am a complete novice at this:

There is just one bug in this whole set-up. Even with Parameter set to 35 (Calibration) set to Zero (0) it still appears to recalibrate every time you turn the power off. Clearly this is a pain if you have a power cut because in a 2 way set-up it appears (assuming its wired correctly) that both Switch A and Switch B must be in the correct (off) position to calibrate properly. So if the power goes off you must ensure the switches are in the correct position before turning the power back on!!!

So if there’s anyway to fix the code so that you can turn calibration off in the event of a power cut that would be awesome as its beyond my level of expertise!

Thank you,