Fibaro 2 Dimmer (212 not 211)

When you set those parameters in the script, the Configure button will push them all to the Dimmer. You won’t get presented with options.

It has worked really well for me and I have a number of different instances of the Dimmer script for the different configurations I need.

I’ve fixed it!

After a bit of research I found this:

It turns out the surge you get when wired into the switched live at the rose (as opposed to ‘dead’ wires at the switch) can be enough to register a second switch command, in this case ‘off’.

I’ve wired in an RC suppressor between the neutral and switched live and it’s working perfectly.

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So I set the scaledConfigurationValue: to what I want the parameter to be?

I have a couple of these Dimmer 2 Fibaro modules and currently using with toggle switches does anyone know if they can be used with 2 way off retractive switches such as the below?

So that pushing up dims up and pushing down dims down, seems more intuitive to me that a simple retractvie switch

I finally gave up on using the Fibaro. I got them working on a 2 way switch, but then couldn’t find any light bulbs that would actually work with the light switch without flickering, or randomly switching off.

Returned back to Hue bulbs and motion detectors in each room to turn lights on and off.

Let’s hope Smartthings can fix their compatibility issues asap.

Was that the dimmer 2? I have found them to be excellent, it auto senses the lights and pretty much works with any bulb. That has reflected in my testing too , really happy with them. On my non dimmable LED’s when I try and dim it just turns them on off with no flicker and on my dimmable LED’s the work how they should. Tried it on my CFL that I have in the landing and did a reset of module again worked well. Can’t say that I have tried the first Dimmer they did though. This was all with normal On/off switches and configured as momentary switches

The two way retractive is my setup and it works fine. You just have to set one of the parameters appropriately- Vesternet have a guide on how to do this. From memory it’s param 20 to value 2, but read the guide before you try that!!

The only problem I have with my Fibaro Dimmer 2s is that the ones in the ceiling roses (due to existing wiring constraints) are unreliable and surges when activated via Z-wave often lead to double switching of on followed immediately by off. I have an RC suppressor between the neutral and switched live when ch has marginally improved things. Vesternet suggested the Dimmer Bypass 2, when released, may help but I’m not really sure how as that sits on the load side, not the control side, of the module.

These are really good devices in general though, and great that you can keep familiar switches in place.

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Really? That’s completely different to my experiences @lagrian

My LED bulbs just flickered when “off”, so I changed to some halogen bulbs, and they turned on, got brighter and brighter and then just turned off.

I’m on a two wire system, so that may be the issue, but I’ve given up on the idea of installing them all in the switch boxes, and will revert to the new Philips Hue bulbs.

The only issue with Philips, is the expense. Some of my lights in my house have three bulbs, so that’s £150 in light bulbs! Times that by 5 light fixtures and you’ve got a big invoice.

Marty, if you only need dimmable white bulbs these are great from Philips -

I’ve just bought 3 and have 3 of the old colour bulbs, lot cheaper than the colour ones and brighter too as they are the new model. £15 a pop is a lot less of a dent in the bank balance.

Marty, can you tell us what the total wattage of your setup is with both sets of bulbs? I suspect that with your LEDs it might be under the 50w minimum, and with halogen it might be over the 250w maximum.

I have many dimmer 2s and I think they’re brilliant.

Thanks for this it look like from the documentation you can but to get reassurance is great. I’ll invest in some in a grid switch system as this seem most intuitive.

I hadn’t thought of putting them in the ceiling rose (good idea) but should of really as I had a couple of switches in brick that were 16mm. Thanks for the help

I have a mix of Fibaros and Hues, I have 11 hue bulbs and 3 fibaros and the setup works well. Admittedly 4 of them are lux bulbs but I only use them in low used spaces so perfect for this use i.e. Porch as the are only £12-£15 now. How ever as you have pointed out Hues are expensive and 8 GU10 on one of my circuits would costs me £400 pounds and they aren’t the brightest. A decent dimmible LED is £7 odd plus a Fibaro dimmer is £38 so £94 for most of the functionality (no colour) but an always on wall switch.

I have installed mine in a 2 wire configuration even though I have neutral at the switch, just because I was lazy and could work out which neutral was the correct one for each switch (4 gang) so I just ran the wire from N to Sx problem solved.

The fact that your halogens worked but only got brighter suggest a wiring or parameter misconfiguration to me.

I have one of these dimmers, I’ve done some playing around but until my renovations are finished I haven’t installed it anywhere yet.

I want it in the lounge but the LEDs are less than 25w so they just flicker. So am waiting for the bypass to be released.

What happens with this switch if you connect the second switch? It should turn it in to a scene trigger. But is that supported in Smarthings?

I would like to have my lamps connected to outlets and turn them on and off using the second switch. Or have a way of triggering a scene that dims the main light and turns the lamps on.

@lagrian Are you saying you have Hue bulbs in fixtures controlled by Fibaro dimmers? I thought that was a nono since using outside dimmer on a smart bulb was supposed to be a bad idea? Would kinda be my ideal scenario if I could have control over my Hue/Osram smart bulbs with both the brige/hub AND the wall switch with Fibaro dimmer, but I think that doesnt work.

Why can’t you use the Fibaro with the Hue’s but just use the Fibaro to switch on and off only then use the Hue to dim. You’d have to write the routine carefully but it could be used to get around the issue of having to leave switches in the on position to use the Hues for anything automated by checking the state first and setting it appropriately.

The issue I see with this though is that if your Fibaro is OFF and turns ON it will set the Hue to 100% as if switched manually, only then when the Hue is awake will it go to whatever scene or brightness you’ve selected. This 100% dim down would become annoying I think, it’s a similar issue that I believe LightwaveRF has.

TBH LightwaveRF seems like the best solution for lighting in the UK currently.

@LakeEnd No I have fibaro dimmers for my circuits where there are say more than 2 spots to save costs, in the switches I am using grid switches so I can mix momentary, on/off and the ones I am going to use for my hues are these:

I was going to just wire the hues lights up behind the switch but wasn’t happy with the only way of turning them off was at the consumer unit, so I think this gives me peace of mind, I can still turn them off with a key and doesn’t look too bad but stops people turning them off. I have some hue taps for guest turning on and off but trying to fit my lighting to turn on and off with routines,time of day and motion sensors (still tweaking this).

I was using low power LED bulbs, and so I changed them to 75w Halogen ones.

I have two light switches that I would like to automate with ST. The first is a one gang dimmer controlling halogen bulbs. The second is a two gang dimmer controlling halogen bulbs. Will the Fibaro dimmer work for this setup? The two gang dimmer has recently broken so I will need to in any event replace it with a new dimmer so if there is a better alternative I am happy to change.
Thank you


It will work, however you’ll need to replace the dimmer switches with either toggle or momentary switches. Momentary are far better for dimming (less fiddly) although it takes a while tonget used to the idea.

Bear in mind the Fibaro can’t power the physical switch, so you can’t use fancy touch panel ones.

Other options are the Aeon dimmer (needs neutral at the switch and cannot dim trailing edge LEDs which you may want in the future) and Qubino flush dimmer. I’ve just ordered a couple of those to try in a ceiling rose where my Fibaros are misbehaving. I’ve not seen a custom device type for the Qubino so this is a bit of a voyage into the unknown for me!

Generally the Fibaros are great for what you describe, however.

I forgot to mention I have a flash on then off issue with my non dimmable LEDs when I first plugged in my Fibaro module, after excluding the Fibaro from the zwave network repairing and then using the dimmer 2 device type on here setting the auto configure after each power on paramenter all was fine. I think it autoconfigured wrong first time. But there were plenty of other routes I was going to look at, have you worked throguh all these:

Appearing of an error may be the result of electrical surges, incorrect
load control (inductive load controlled in trailing edge mode) or connecting
the prohibited type of load.
Pressing any of the
connected switches or
changing state of the
device using the controller
will exit error
If parameter 35 is set
to 3 or 4, the load will
be calibrated again after
turning on the load
or an occurrence of
Error modes
Appearing of an error may also be the result of rapid powering on
the load. It may also occur if the soft-start functionality is disabled
(parameter 34 set to 0) or as a result of the short circuit.
If parameter 37 is set to 1, the device will automatically try to turn on
If described error has been caused by the rapid powering on the load,
then FIBARO Dimmer 2 will return to normal operation after reenabling.
After three unsuccessful automatic tries of turning on the load, Dimmer
2 will stay in OVERCURRENT error mode (module turned off ). In
such situation, it is required to remove the failure (possible short circuit
in the installation.) Otherwise, it is recommended to set the long
soft-start (parameter 34 set to 2).
Appearing of an error is a result of connecting receivers with too
much power consumption. In this case FIBARO Dimmer 2 will automatically
turn off the lighting.
It is required to reduce power consumption of connected load (e.g. by
reducing the number of receivers) and turn on the light source again
by the wall switch or a Z-Wave command.
Appearing of an error in a 2-wire connection may be the result of
mains voltage drop or a too high brightness level of the light source.
If parameter 37 is set to 1, the device will automatically try to turn on
Voltage drop error suggests that parameter 2 value should be reduced
until disappearing of the failure. You can also recalibrate the
load using parameter 13.
After three unsuccessful automatic tries of turning on the load, Dimmer
2 will stay in VOLTAGE DROP error mode (module turned off ).