Fibaro 2 Dimmer (212 not 211)

Thanks for this it look like from the documentation you can but to get reassurance is great. I’ll invest in some in a grid switch system as this seem most intuitive.

I hadn’t thought of putting them in the ceiling rose (good idea) but should of really as I had a couple of switches in brick that were 16mm. Thanks for the help

I have a mix of Fibaros and Hues, I have 11 hue bulbs and 3 fibaros and the setup works well. Admittedly 4 of them are lux bulbs but I only use them in low used spaces so perfect for this use i.e. Porch as the are only £12-£15 now. How ever as you have pointed out Hues are expensive and 8 GU10 on one of my circuits would costs me £400 pounds and they aren’t the brightest. A decent dimmible LED is £7 odd plus a Fibaro dimmer is £38 so £94 for most of the functionality (no colour) but an always on wall switch.

I have installed mine in a 2 wire configuration even though I have neutral at the switch, just because I was lazy and could work out which neutral was the correct one for each switch (4 gang) so I just ran the wire from N to Sx problem solved.

The fact that your halogens worked but only got brighter suggest a wiring or parameter misconfiguration to me.

I have one of these dimmers, I’ve done some playing around but until my renovations are finished I haven’t installed it anywhere yet.

I want it in the lounge but the LEDs are less than 25w so they just flicker. So am waiting for the bypass to be released.

What happens with this switch if you connect the second switch? It should turn it in to a scene trigger. But is that supported in Smarthings?

I would like to have my lamps connected to outlets and turn them on and off using the second switch. Or have a way of triggering a scene that dims the main light and turns the lamps on.

@lagrian Are you saying you have Hue bulbs in fixtures controlled by Fibaro dimmers? I thought that was a nono since using outside dimmer on a smart bulb was supposed to be a bad idea? Would kinda be my ideal scenario if I could have control over my Hue/Osram smart bulbs with both the brige/hub AND the wall switch with Fibaro dimmer, but I think that doesnt work.

Why can’t you use the Fibaro with the Hue’s but just use the Fibaro to switch on and off only then use the Hue to dim. You’d have to write the routine carefully but it could be used to get around the issue of having to leave switches in the on position to use the Hues for anything automated by checking the state first and setting it appropriately.

The issue I see with this though is that if your Fibaro is OFF and turns ON it will set the Hue to 100% as if switched manually, only then when the Hue is awake will it go to whatever scene or brightness you’ve selected. This 100% dim down would become annoying I think, it’s a similar issue that I believe LightwaveRF has.

TBH LightwaveRF seems like the best solution for lighting in the UK currently.

@LakeEnd No I have fibaro dimmers for my circuits where there are say more than 2 spots to save costs, in the switches I am using grid switches so I can mix momentary, on/off and the ones I am going to use for my hues are these:

I was going to just wire the hues lights up behind the switch but wasn’t happy with the only way of turning them off was at the consumer unit, so I think this gives me peace of mind, I can still turn them off with a key and doesn’t look too bad but stops people turning them off. I have some hue taps for guest turning on and off but trying to fit my lighting to turn on and off with routines,time of day and motion sensors (still tweaking this).

I was using low power LED bulbs, and so I changed them to 75w Halogen ones.

I have two light switches that I would like to automate with ST. The first is a one gang dimmer controlling halogen bulbs. The second is a two gang dimmer controlling halogen bulbs. Will the Fibaro dimmer work for this setup? The two gang dimmer has recently broken so I will need to in any event replace it with a new dimmer so if there is a better alternative I am happy to change.
Thank you


It will work, however you’ll need to replace the dimmer switches with either toggle or momentary switches. Momentary are far better for dimming (less fiddly) although it takes a while tonget used to the idea.

Bear in mind the Fibaro can’t power the physical switch, so you can’t use fancy touch panel ones.

Other options are the Aeon dimmer (needs neutral at the switch and cannot dim trailing edge LEDs which you may want in the future) and Qubino flush dimmer. I’ve just ordered a couple of those to try in a ceiling rose where my Fibaros are misbehaving. I’ve not seen a custom device type for the Qubino so this is a bit of a voyage into the unknown for me!

Generally the Fibaros are great for what you describe, however.

I forgot to mention I have a flash on then off issue with my non dimmable LEDs when I first plugged in my Fibaro module, after excluding the Fibaro from the zwave network repairing and then using the dimmer 2 device type on here setting the auto configure after each power on paramenter all was fine. I think it autoconfigured wrong first time. But there were plenty of other routes I was going to look at, have you worked throguh all these:

Appearing of an error may be the result of electrical surges, incorrect
load control (inductive load controlled in trailing edge mode) or connecting
the prohibited type of load.
Pressing any of the
connected switches or
changing state of the
device using the controller
will exit error
If parameter 35 is set
to 3 or 4, the load will
be calibrated again after
turning on the load
or an occurrence of
Error modes
Appearing of an error may also be the result of rapid powering on
the load. It may also occur if the soft-start functionality is disabled
(parameter 34 set to 0) or as a result of the short circuit.
If parameter 37 is set to 1, the device will automatically try to turn on
If described error has been caused by the rapid powering on the load,
then FIBARO Dimmer 2 will return to normal operation after reenabling.
After three unsuccessful automatic tries of turning on the load, Dimmer
2 will stay in OVERCURRENT error mode (module turned off ). In
such situation, it is required to remove the failure (possible short circuit
in the installation.) Otherwise, it is recommended to set the long
soft-start (parameter 34 set to 2).
Appearing of an error is a result of connecting receivers with too
much power consumption. In this case FIBARO Dimmer 2 will automatically
turn off the lighting.
It is required to reduce power consumption of connected load (e.g. by
reducing the number of receivers) and turn on the light source again
by the wall switch or a Z-Wave command.
Appearing of an error in a 2-wire connection may be the result of
mains voltage drop or a too high brightness level of the light source.
If parameter 37 is set to 1, the device will automatically try to turn on
Voltage drop error suggests that parameter 2 value should be reduced
until disappearing of the failure. You can also recalibrate the
load using parameter 13.
After three unsuccessful automatic tries of turning on the load, Dimmer
2 will stay in VOLTAGE DROP error mode (module turned off ).

Thanks, I’ll have a look into that. I’ve re-calibrated so many times though it probably doesn’t need that again.

I’m just at a loss as to how it works manually but fails on z-wave. In the log I see an on event followed by an off event, and I have no idea where that off is coming from. I’d have assumed if it was a surge or something then there wouldn’t be an off being sent, but I don’t really know.

I’m hoping the Qubino modules fix this; if not then I’ll have to start delving even deeper. Or give up!

Just curious, why are you guys putting the dimmers into ceiling roses instead behind the switches? Is it simply because you dont have enough room behind the switch?

I’m doing it because the way my house is wired, I’ve only got the common wire and the two strappers available there. Evidently the person who wired it connected the strappers to the live and switched live somewhere in the ceiling which is inaccessible. It’s under a tiled bathroom so I can’t even lift the floorboards to get to this junction. Either way, it means I don’t think I can wire it behind the switch according to the Fibaro diagrams.

Does that make sense?

Typically it’s because there’s a neutral wire at the Rose and no neutral wire at the switch box. This is pretty common in UK construction. It also gets done in older houses in the United States.

Ok that makes sense, but I guess you can also install Fibaros without the neutral, is it somehow inferior method?

No, but it often requires splitting the core wire open, and not everyone wants to do that or is allowed to do that by the property owner. It really just depends on the individual wiring and what the person doing the replacement is comfortable doing.

There is also one old form of wiring (in the United States we call it knob and tube) where the wiring is sealed together and partially enclosed in ceramic pieces and you have to find a place where there is an existing neutral already split out.

There Has to be a neutral on the circuit somewhere, but in older homes it often starts at the Rose.

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None of my switches have a neutral and the Fibaros are absolutely fine their, with N tied to Sx (if I remember correctly).

This issue I have in this one room is that there is no way I can get the module between the physical switches’ wires and the live/switched-live. If I attach at the switch, the control wires will be live (courtesy of the hidden junction box) and it’ll be bye-bye Fibaro, I suspect. Up at the rose it should just look like a standard one-way switch is connected to the live/switched-live cable. However I’m guessing a surge is creeping in. I’ve used a suppressor which helps the manual switch work more reliably, if not 100%, but the z-wave part never properly works now.

I will draw a diagram and upload that because I know my setup is fairly convoluted and folk on here may spot an obvious error on my part.

Hi Giles,

I know we have spoke about this already but just as it was exactly the same issue as mine that being that the lights would turn and off immediately when using zwave not the physical switch, can you confirm if this issue occurs if the switch is configured as on off only (no dim) and does the issue go away. If this is the case which I suspect it is you can “potentially” resolve this changing the dimming parameters.

Has anyone here got experience of the Dimmer 2 installed in 2-wire installations with 3-way (or greater) circuits and toggle switches?

I have put together a test circuit and the switching all works fine manually (single toggles required), and the Dimmer 2s work fine remotely, but I have an unusual behaviour when mixing on and offs between physical and remote.

For reference I’ve used the wiring from the Vesternet site ( but not bridged the Sx and N contacts (as this resulted in a red overload led on the module) and switched the light off after about 1s.

If I switch on physically, then switch off remotely, the next physical switch on will require 2 toggles to turn on. Equally, when I turn on remotely, and then turn off physically, I need another 2 toggles. Even more unusually I’ve noticed that in some states, the final switch in the circuit will work with 1 toggle (i.e. as expected). Can anyone confirm if the behaviour I’m seeing is what should be expected or is it indicative of a wiring anomaly somewhere? If it’s by design it’s a bit disappointing as it prevents me transparently installing into existing circuits - not keen on replacing switches.


Unfortunately yes, the issue still occurs. I tested it again today. I’ve tried so many wiring setups now that I’ve decided to pull out the Fibaros and abandon this one. Feels like I’ve spent hours lately fidding around with this ceiling rose and the switches.

I have a couple of Qubino units to try, but to be honest I might just leave it for now and come back fresh in a couple of months.

It’s unfortunate that this has all happened at the same time that SmartThings has been so useless with timed events failing routinely. It’s making me question the whole HA thing at the moment. Or at the very least, I’ve been having a serious look at the Vera Edge. I know these issues aren’t related, but I’m craving reliability at this point.