[FAQ] GE 3-Way Wiring

I am in need of some help i got a Lutron MA-L3S25-IV Maestro 300 Watt Single-Pole Dual Dimmer and Switch iot controls 2 sets of lights on the 1 switch box (2 seperate switches on the 1 box) i have the lights wired atm on a old style switch and both turn on and off at the same time
How to i change it from that old switch to the new switch ? I( have tried once already and i got 1 set of lights working on the dimmer but could not get the seconed set of lights to work on the on/off switch . Any help would be great

I’m having a problem with a 3-way switch install. Wired as per instructions, connected to the wifi network. See photos (one embedded, one linked). When the regular 3-way switch is turned on, it kills the power to the smart switch, (no LED, no network connection). When the regular switch if off, the power to the smart switch is present, (LED on, the network is connected), however, both the manual toggle switch and the phone app will ‘click’ inside the smart switch, but will not turn on the light. Tried messaging OEM support. No answer… any ideas appreciated!
IMG_7421|640x480 IMG_7422 .

Make and model of the switch? Is it a switch that requires a matching a compatible add-on switch and if so, did you add that as well? It’s hard to tell from your pics.

It’s a MEROSS MSS550 3-way smart switch. Say’s it’s not supposed to have a compatible add-on switch. thanks,

link: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07M7VZFHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I looked at the wiring “tips” from the maker and, frankly, they don’t make any sense. Either that or Canadian wiring is very different from American.

You should get help from the maker of the switch.

It’s hard to troubleshoot wiring issues without a schematic of your wiring, light position, power feed, etc.

It’s pretty certain that its a wiring issue with the new switch. When you throw the other remote manual switch to one position, it sounds as if it is effectively cutting power to the smart switch. Three-way manual switches don’t have and on and off, they just complete a circuit over one of the travelers alternately. So the smart switch is not wired properly or is missing a neutral.

It looks as if your power feed is coming into the light first, as I only see a single three-wire at each box. This only complicates things as I’m not sure you really have a neutral in the box with the smart switch.

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I was hoping someone could help me. I am having a heck of a time trying to install GE Switches 12723 and 14294.

The red load from the switch is capped off to a different romex black wire. I’ve tried a few different things from this thread but I couldn’t get anywhere.

This is really the same situation as many of my posts above. You have line and load in the first picture switch location. Line is hooked up to your existing switch as you note and load is being “sent” to your other switch via that red/black wire you are questioning. The load is the black wire in that bundle as you can see red is hooked up to the black screw on the other switch.

Remember you won’t need the black wire that is in the same Romex as that red wire so you can cap it on both locations. The use the white wire from that Romex to “send” neutral to your Aux switch and use the red wire as your traveler.

That is what I kept thinking and referring back to was your posts and for some reason, I kept disregarding the black as the load and assumed it was red that was the load. Maybe it was the late hours, or I couldn’t see the forest through the trees type of thing, but now it makes sense.

Would I then need to pigtail a neutral and also connect the neutral in the main and that neutral is the neutral for the add on?

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.

Yes you will need to either hook that white wire in the same Romex as the red wire either into the neutral bundle or insert it into the second hole on the switch neutral terminal.

I have had multiple GE 3way ZWave switches installed since 2015. I have one that sticks in the ON position and will not respond to an OFF command from either the master or slave switch. I hear a click sound but no action to the command. It worked for a few years before it started acting in this way.

After several hours (as long as 12 hrs), the switch will resume acting normally and start responding to all commands. This may last days or weeks before it acts up again. It always returns to normal and I have never had to throw the circuit breaker for that circuit to get it to reset although that was my backup plan.

Anyone experience this or have any thoughts?

I have never had this happen. I have some switches dating back to 2014 too. You may call Jasco support.

I don’t have any Jasco switches under any label so this is a total shot in the dark.

That kind of sounds like an overheating problem.

Is the problem device a switch or dimmer? As I understand it, dimmers have to dissipate heat.

Is the problem device in a multi-gang box with one or more dimmers (either smart or dumb}

I have the attached 3-way switched outlet situation. I want to 1) add a GE switch/add-on and 2) create a half switched outlet. I have done other half switched outlets in my house, but they were on a regular non 3-way. I am having trouble figuring this one out. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 3-way-switched-outlet-diagram

Figure out which of your switches has line power. As shown in diagram this switch location will have a 14-3 and a 14-2 Romex while the other one will have a single 14-3 Romex. The one with 2 wires will be your master and single wire will be your Aux.

Master:

  • black from 14-2 will be your line
  • black from 14-3 will be your load
  • hook both white wires up to neutral
  • hook red wire to traveler

Aux

  • cap black wire as you no longer need it
  • red to traveler
  • white to neutral

Receptacle:

  • hook both white wires to neutral terminals
  • use wire nut to connect two red wires in back of box
  • you only need black wire coming from master switch to positive terminal. If you can figure out which one that is great if not hook both up but again put wire nut on that black wire since it will be powered and you don’t need it.
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Thank you! That works perfect as a switched outlet. Is it possible to make it be a half hot with out running a new 14/2?

You don’t have enough wires unfortunately. Only possibility is using the capped black wire in your Aux switch box to send line back to the outlet but that would require you to run line power to that box and have it be in same circuit breaker so neutral and ground are same.

Thank you. That’s what I was thinking. Luckily the outlet is on my first floor with the basement right below. Im going to try and run a 14/2 up to the outlet. Thanks again for all of your help! I dont know why builders thought switched outlets were the bees knees (besides saving money)

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I have what I think is a relatively simple question, but can’t seem to find an answer anywhere. I have a house built in 1960; therefore, all my wiring is only two wires - white and black (plus ground) but no red. I am trying to wire a 4 way GE smart switch. In the main box I have a neutral wire. However, I would have to use the white as a traveler to the load. There is no neutral wire in the secondary box. My simple question is… Since the traveler wire in the configuration is described as a low voltage carrier, can I split that wire in my secondary box and use it as both the traveler and “neutral”. My understanding is that the switches (including add-on switch) uses the neutral wire to draw a trickle of current to stay active and if its the same as the low voltage used in the traveler to the add-on switch, I think it should work. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks.

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