If possible, outlets should be installed no less than 15” (measured from the lowest outlet to the finished floor) above the finished floor and the panel box, switches and the thermostat should be installed no less than 48” above the finished floor (measured from the highest breaker inside the panel).
section 4.2 page 15
I know people rehabbing houses that have been written up for this in inspections…
All new wall switches shall be located for convenience and accessible use.
People in wheelchairs, those who are of smaller stature, or in some cases for the convenience of children, often have lights switches installed lower than 48”. Also the same section you quoted just says they’re recommendations, not requirements. You shouldn’t be written up for it, especially if there’s an ADA reason to lower them.
The receptacles are supposed to be at least 15 inches up for safety for people who have difficulty bending down that far.
As far as the 48” reference, Whoever wrote that Texas document screwed up and left out a word. The ADA and ANSI requirements are a maximum of 48 inches high. That’s a wheelchair reach issue. You definitely shouldn’t be written up for having it lower than 48 inches, but you might be written up for having it higher in new construction.
American National Standard A117.1-1998.
308 Reach Ranges
308.1 General. Reach ranges shall comply with Section 308.
308.2 Forward Reach. 308.2.1 Unobstructed. Where a forward reach is unobstructed, the high forward reach shall be 48 inches (1220 mm) maximum and the low forward reach shall be 15 inches (380 mm) minimum above the floor or ground.
FHA has adopted the same design standard:
This was a change a couple of years ago from earlier standards.
Dug a little deeper. The switch is all based on an ESP8266, so it’ll be wifi only. Looks hackable, so maybe I can find a route other than IFTTT. Maybe I’ll try it. Just wish GE or Leviton or someone would produce something.
So I have one of these PITA dual switches in a single gang in the bathroom, Bought the Mojocraft switch to try and it works really well. Using Ifttt integrating it with ST was quick and easy and it controls my fan and light with no issues.
Installation is straight forward but the snap in ring is a pain. The screw heads for the wire connections stick out too much for the switch to slide in easily. It does go in with some force or a dremel trim on that edge works. Second issue is the switch doesn’t snap tightly into the ring and if the wires are pushing back it just pops out.
Both issues for me were minor as I’m no rid of that dreaded switch I hated and now the bath fan is fully automated lights already were with bulbs. Switch uses relays you can hear click when toggled.
That’s not a double switch. That’s one button for on and one button for off. That’s why the two lightbulb icons are different. But it only controls a single circuit branch. ( I have this model in my own home.)
other option is to use the fibaro double in wall switch. You do have to create a virtual switch (I saw a walk through for this somewhere in the forums)
heres the vesternet link, but you can find them on amazon etc too.
Neo Coolcam now has a zwave two button switch which fits in a single gang space. It’s not very intuitive because most people will think the top button is on and the bottom button is off rather than that each button controls a different device. But some community members are using it, in part just because it’s so inexpensive.
This device is also available on the EU Zwave frequency, so make sure you get the right one for your hub.
Zooz has recently released a zwave switch of this type With one dimmer switch and one on off switch together in a single gang space. This one is much more intuitive than the Coolcam.