If possible, outlets should be installed no less than 15” (measured from the lowest outlet to the finished floor) above the finished floor and the panel box, switches and the thermostat should be installed no less than 48” above the finished floor (measured from the highest breaker inside the panel).
section 4.2 page 15
I know people rehabbing houses that have been written up for this in inspections…
In the 4.12 light switches section, says:
All new wall switches shall be located for convenience and accessible use.
People in wheelchairs, those who are of smaller stature, or in some cases for the convenience of children, often have lights switches installed lower than 48”. Also the same section you quoted just says they’re recommendations, not requirements. You shouldn’t be written up for it, especially if there’s an ADA reason to lower them.
The receptacles are supposed to be at least 15 inches up for safety for people who have difficulty bending down that far.
As far as the 48” reference, Whoever wrote that Texas document screwed up and left out a word. The ADA and ANSI requirements are a maximum of 48 inches high. That’s a wheelchair reach issue. You definitely shouldn’t be written up for having it lower than 48 inches, but you might be written up for having it higher in new construction.
American National Standard A117.1-1998.
308 Reach Ranges
308.1 General. Reach ranges shall comply with Section 308.
308.2 Forward Reach. 308.2.1 Unobstructed. Where a forward reach is unobstructed, the high forward reach shall be 48 inches (1220 mm) maximum and the low forward reach shall be 15 inches (380 mm) minimum above the floor or ground.
FHA has adopted the same design standard:
This was a change a couple of years ago from earlier standards.
Dug a little deeper. The switch is all based on an ESP8266, so it’ll be wifi only. Looks hackable, so maybe I can find a route other than IFTTT. Maybe I’ll try it. Just wish GE or Leviton or someone would produce something.
Yeah, i’ve been really disappointed that Leviton didn’t come out with a Z wave plus version of the VRCS2. 
The dual micro relays mentioned upthread will work For most people, though, so that’s always an option.
Indeed, and could add a soft switch. However, I just searched and according to the Amazon Q&A, the vision relays don’t have any certifications either. It looks like the Fibaro is though.
So I have one of these PITA dual switches in a single gang in the bathroom, Bought the Mojocraft switch to try and it works really well. Using Ifttt integrating it with ST was quick and easy and it controls my fan and light with no issues.
Installation is straight forward but the snap in ring is a pain. The screw heads for the wire connections stick out too much for the switch to slide in easily. It does go in with some force or a dremel trim on that edge works. Second issue is the switch doesn’t snap tightly into the ring and if the wires are pushing back it just pops out.
Both issues for me were minor as I’m no rid of that dreaded switch I hated 
and now the bath fan is fully automated lights already were with bulbs. Switch uses relays you can hear click when toggled.
Hey guys,
Been a while since this post was updated. It seems lutron came out with a compatible double switch. https://www.smartthings.com/products/lutron-casta-wireless-600w-in-wall-pro-switch
You just need to buy the lutron hub which is an extra $100 here in Canada. I would prefer a Leviton option where no hub is required.
Anyone else have some new updated options?
That’s not a double switch. That’s one button for on and one button for off. That’s why the two lightbulb icons are different. But it only controls a single circuit branch. ( I have this model in my own home.)
Lol wow. Well thats unfortunate.
The Meross switch has been working fine for me with IFTTT and ST. Controls a light and bathroom fan. Using core, a motion and a contact as triggers.
can you link the switch? All I found on Amazon are for single lights.
You mean me? I did in my other post a couple above my last one.
other option is to use the fibaro double in wall switch. You do have to create a virtual switch (I saw a walk through for this somewhere in the forums)
heres the vesternet link, but you can find them on amazon etc too.
I don’t know if they would fit in my electrical
boxes.
these devices really are small. I have 4 in some of my wall boxes, but it obviously will change house to house.
remember most of the smart switches also have an extra recess behind the physical switch. So if you are very constricted on space, make sure to check that the switch will fit.
2020 Update
Neo Coolcam now has a zwave two button switch which fits in a single gang space. It’s not very intuitive because most people will think the top button is on and the bottom button is off rather than that each button controls a different device. But some community members are using it, in part just because it’s so inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/NEO-Coolcam-Sensitive-Automation-SmartThings/dp/B07TWC8R7D
This device is also available on the EU Zwave frequency, so make sure you get the right one for your hub.
UK:
Zooz has recently released a zwave switch of this type With one dimmer switch and one on off switch together in a single gang space. This one is much more intuitive than the Coolcam. 
Here’s the discussion thread for it:
I came across this the other day, if anyone is still looking or finds this thread in the future.
ZOOZ Z-WAVE PLUS S2 DOUBLE SWITCH ZEN30
That’s the same device discussed in the post right above yours, there is a link there to the current active discussion thread for it.
