Hi,
I just want to know if someone have tried a fail safe Router/modem with smartthings!?
I am looking at this https://www.netgear.com/home/products/mobile-broadband/lte-modems/LB2120.aspx
Does it work? How long does it take to switch to fail safe?
/Thekholm
Let me google that for you:
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&source=hp&ei=4UxNXfGgBobaswW91ai4Bw&q=netgear+lb2120+review&oq=netgear+lb2120+review
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=netgear+lb2120+review&t=ipad&ia=web
Haha,
I can Google it my self and read reviews from Amazon and so on. But most of the reviews are from people that don’t have the knowledge about router settings, smartthings and network! I would love to hear from someone with right knowledge and interested in internet of things!
Best regards
Just a hint here: Smartthings is everything but time critical environment.
So whatever it takes to switch from your ISP to 3G/4G, it won’t cause you any specific disadvantage.
In the end, what you just want to get is your garage door to open and your lights to turn on/off even when you have an ISP outage.
If you want to add power outage contingency then you need to set further things around, specially for the devices that are grid powered.
First rule of home automation also applies to routers: the model number matters. Different people have different experiences with different models.
If you would like to see what other community members have done to provide uninterrupted operations when the Internet goes out, go to the quick browse lists in the community – created wiki, look down near the bottom of the page for the “project reports” section, and then choose the “power“ list. There are a number of different ways to approach this requirement, and several project reports have been posted. 
Back to you that “the model number matters“ rule. The specific Netgear device you linked to has some limitations
- Works with any GSM Carier, including ATT and T-Mobile. Device will not work with Verizon or Sprint.
( actually, it will work with Verizon in some areas, but only with a hotspot account.)
And depending on the terms of your account, you may have to have a specific “hotspot“ contract rather than just using your regular phone.
vIt’ll work with a T-Mobile SIM meant for a hotspot, which has a 22gb per month cap. It will not work with a SIM that is meant for a cell phone on an unlimited data plan.
And again depending on your specific account, you are going to have to pay $10-$20 a month to keep the hotspot data available for this device. At $240 a year plus tax that may be more than many people want to pay.
Also, again specific to the model that you linked to, that particular model appears to not do well with what is called “failsafe recovery,” which means switching back to your regular Internet connection when it is restored. Instead, it just keeps chugging along using the expensive hotspot data until you notice and manually switch it.
That might not seem so bad until you realize that it will tend to detect an “outage” even when there isn’t one, Sometimes several times a day. Which means it may keep switching itself over to that expensive hotspot data. This appears to be one of the biggest complaints about it.
When you look at reviews, remember that many people are buying it as a hotspot modem, not for the failsafe feature, so they won’t be evaluating it from a failsafe perspective.
Also, it doesn’t have its own Wi-Fi and it’s going to reassign all your carefully constructed network addresses. Basically it’s just going to start from scratch. That may not be what you want.
Wow JDRoberts!
You’re solid as a rock at the community? 
Many thanks for all input, I will look at the wiki and see.
When it comes to monthly fee, that’s not a problem here in Sweden. You can pay 20-30 dollars for 20gb and have it on a sim card for 12 months. You refill it when it’s over or when 12 months has gone.
I just want my smartthings working with as little problem as possible.
Best regards
Thekholm
Thanks for your input.
I just want it working when there is a short outbreak.
/Thekholm
I use it in my system. I love it. It generally takes 20-30 seconds to detect an outage and switch to lte.
The hub usually doesn’t even notice the outage.
Do NOT use bridge mode. Keep it on router mode and use NAT and port forwarding as necessary. I also use a switch so I can keep the hub, my wired camera, and t-stat bridge all on the same sub net separate from my computers and TV’s.
Thanks!
Do you have Netgear or some other product!? Almost every produkt I have is wired, besides phones, tablet and sensor and small stuff.
Best regards
I’m using the Netgear LB2120 with a Project Fi (Google’s mvno) data only sim.
I use the 2120. It has a nifty feature where it will text you when it fails over and fails back.
I highly recommend connecting your hub, router, cable modem, and the 2120 to a battery backup. In some metro areas the power is more likely to temporarily go out than the internet.
What, I have not yet had such a router, but I plan to buy one. I’ve had a couple of tough internet problems. I work from home, and you can imagine the trouble I get from a bad Internet connection. A couple of times it happened that there are problems with the Internet just when I have to hand over an urgent order. I decided to change my router, but of course I don’t understand anything about it. I had to google and as a result I found the site https://router-admin.net, where there are tips for choosing a router. This helped me a lot and I replaced my router with a better one.