Electrician question about switch box neutral

The only reason for the various low voltage is location. 99% of the time it is a stable 120 volts, I refer to the lower voltage is when there are what we call Brown Outs. They were one time often, but these day hardly ever in most areas.

Are you sure you’re an electrician?
Single phase is 1 hot one neutral.

OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) does not take precedence over NEC and it cannot and does not recommends a single product over another. You got that phrase from WAGO’s web site.
While it’s true that there is less stress on wires with that connection, it seems that copper wires have no problem taking the twisting stress.

Same volume but you should not have lose wires unless capped

they just need to be hooked together
 you can pull one of the whites out of the neturtral bundle with a short piece of wire and wire the other end to your new device and the wire you pulled out
 Just one morer wire nut in the box now
 I do that all the time if there are too many wires in the bundle.

Sorry I wrote that wrong single pahase is 1 hot one netural, dual phase is two hots one neutral. Sorry I should proof read what I type.

The bigest problem ever was with Aluminium wire they broke when twisted. We started using crimps, with plastic caps, and a special paste to prevent oxidation.

I hope you also used copper pigtails, as required by code.

That’s why I replaced ALL wiring in my house. Plus they carry less current than copper for the same wire size.

Absolutely right.

200A here (US). I think that’s fairly standard for new builds now. My house was built in 1997.

Pig-tailing was required, with Penatrox and a crimp. To many fly by night companies were using non Cu/Al wire nuts causing lots of problems.

I did the same thing, had no choice. In my house the builder used under sized wire. For the life of me I don’t understand how the inspector didn’t fail the job. Unless he got paid off.
After a while I stopped getting upset with all the violations that were visible to the naked eye. In my new home I opened the panel and found that the neutral bar had two and three wires under each screw. I lost it, and went to the town inspector. His answer was well the inspector is no longer with us, so it isn’t our problem. (No longer with us, meant exactly that ! He committed sewer-side, because he was receiving pay offs) Well long story short I added another neutral bar and bonded it. I was so angry, as adding the bar meant pulling every breaker, so I could mount it in the panel.

Some do. Some are not up to date on code. Plus they have to relate what they see to when last changes where made to the electric and apply that code. Do you really think they know all changes in the code and relate house age to code year? Code used change like every 3 years. Now it’s almost yearly. Hard to keep up.

The code regarding the neutral bar was ten years old. I also know he violated a panel at a friends house just for that particular violation. In our town, and in most, if there is work done by a electrician and the panel is not up to code, it will not get the CO unless it is brought up to code. He and the developer’s inspector were in business together, making money looking the other way. I still have been giving the town a hard time, as I want to know the name of the contractor. Usually it is on the panel, but it isn’t. I know I am beating a horse to death, but it drives me nuts. Of the many homes in my development that I have seen the panel, most are in violation. My neighbors told me that when they had work done, they had to fix the neutral bar. This jerk, in some homes didn’t bond the Hot Water tank valves.

Personally not a fan of pushwire connections, as they don’t seem to have as much positive contact as a wire nut or screw terminal. I used to own a fire and water damage restoration business, and witnessed the aftermath of a couple of house fires caused by faulty back-wire outlet connections. A condo I lived in burned down when I was in college due to aluminum wiring being installed improperly in a back-wire outlet. I realize that modern push style / back-wire outlets and connectors are much better designed and safer than the older ones, but I still don’t trust them as much as wire nuts and screw terminals.

That said, they are very convenient, especially where the wires have been cut or broken off short inside the box. I keep a handful of them for those cases, but try to avoid using them where possible. YMMV.