I have yet to hear anything at all from them on my ticket (and multiple calls).
Has anyone tried to see if this will respond if the internet is out? I have a hard time believing this will only execute via the cloud. I havent tested it myself.
If you use a community created custom DTH, then cloud only. If you use a native ST DTH, it may or may not run on a local v2 Hub. But then, the logic also needs to be able to run locally as well. Check the status of your devices and apps in the ST Web IDE to determine if they run locally or cloud.
That was me and I’m the one that wrote the Official DTHs for all the Dome products so I’m pretty sure the problem is unrelated to the DTH.
Your device is working, but it’s unable to fully close the valve and the motor doesn’t shut off, correct? I’ve tagged someone at Dome so maybe they can expedite things. @mictha1
The Dome DTHs were created after ST stopped accepting publication requests which is why they’re not built into the platform and won’t run locally.
I think this device uses standard commands so if you’re using SHM or Smart Lighting, you might be able to get it to run locally by changing it to one of the default handlers. I think it’s called something like zwave water valve, but you’ll need to check the execution location like @ogiewon suggested to see if that DTH runs locally.
Either the Dome DTH or the standard one says cloud. I may have to just test either one w/ the ST disconnected and tripping a leak sensor
i’ve just tried your resetting trick you mention. the first few times it was not successful, but the last try seems to be a success. it is now responding via z-wave commands.
(sorry i didn’t give you credit for it, i had just sent the steps to myself via a message, didn’t copy the link)
when it wasn’t functioning via Z-wave commands (physical pushbutton worked), the commands appeared to be sent, but the motor didnt move at all (couldn’t even hear it trying to)
our internet to the house is sporadic at times, so if that can cause an issue? but the internet was functional as other devices worked fine
does this device handler notify you if it looses communications with the device? I’m just worried if it would go offline again for some reason and i don’t notice. and there is a water leak, then this valve wouldn’t actually close
i did set up the Smart Lighting to open/close the valve once per week, haven’t tested it yet to verify it works
thanks for all of your hard work Kevin!
It supports the SmartThings Health Check feature so it will get flagged as offline if it stops responding, but if you use my Simple Device Viewer SmartApp or another SmartApp like Device Monitor you can receive notifications when it goes offline.
Can confirm that both the ST DTH and the Dome DTH will execute in the cloud when using the SmartThings Smart Home Monitor app. No internet = no leak prevention.
You may want to try changing the DTH to a standard Z-Wave Switch device to see if that will run locally and still provide the capability to open and close the valve (open = on, closed = off ???). As long as the logic is not reversed, you might be able to get things to run locally. Just an idea, as I haven’t tried it personally.
So it does function as a standard Z-Wave switch (correct logic). However, it appears my problem is that SHM isnt triggering off the leak.
Kinda thinking that the leak sensor isnt triggering while the internet is out. I dont see a history of it when I look at the recent readings.
It’s a ST leak sensor too.
I just realized the Leaks child app in SHM is executed in the cloud. I thought SHM was fully local?
Found the issue.
The SMH action of “close valves”, among others, is locally processed. This rules out using a generic switch DTH. However, both the custom DTH and the generic Z-Wave valve are cloud executed. The only other one that seems to be a valve is the fortezz water valve DTH. BUT, the logic is opposite (open = closed). I cant tell if any of the other DTH are valves.
Appreciate it. I finally got around to crawling back under the house tonight. I fiddled around with the clamping bracket and while it’s at an angle, it’s working. It opens and shuts without continuously trying. So looks like I am good for now.
Edit: removed me complaining about the lack of support response from dome since it doesn’t benefit anyone
I am looking into buying the Dome shut off but had 2 concerns one my water piping is made of pex material and the other is i only have 3.5in distance from the center to the edge and I think i need at least 5in to be able to attach both the grips
Any thoughts or should I not get it
The pex isn’t a problem but yeah, without going into my crawlspace to check mine,I think the clearance would be an issue. Attaching a photo would help with some ideas.
I have a dome and a leaksmart. Unless you have a situation where replumbing isn’t an option I’d go with the leaksmart every time (price aside).
You can also roll your own smart valve as an option.
Lets start with the photo and some measurements in context of that and see what can be done.
Thank you Scott for the response. I will take a picture when I get home but the measurement is 3.5in from the center of the ball valve to the right angle of the water main piping…so I will only be able to connect one of the grips that come with the dome…from the drawing the dome needs at least 5in to connect correctly.
Replumbing is not an option. I looked at the leaksmart but the price is more than I budgeted for what i need.
I have seen other brands like EcoNet EBV105-HCM and Xenon Smart. My requirements is works with smartthings hub and Alexa
just curious about a couple of things related to the dome shut off valve and smartthings integration.
when i first powered on the dome unit, the on/off light blinks at a fairly rapid, continual pace. no matter what combo of button presses does that change.
ie… 3 presses within a 1 second, long press upwards of 10-20 seconds, press hold 1 second 3 consecutive presses…
meanwhile, none of this makes it display on the “add thing” screen on the smartthings classic app with v2 hub
ive tried and followed the directions from domes website and krlaframboise link
wondering if i just have a dud.
I haven’t seen that before, but you might want to go into the hub utilities and start a z-wave exclude and use the triple push. Then wait a minute and try to join it again.
I’ve talked to thier tier 2 customer support and they couldn’t help either. Just authorized a return. Funny because her words were , “The real trick to pairing the water main shutoff is the button pressing, it is more than 3 times.“
I’m liiiikkkeee, why TF does there need to be a trick and why do the instructions say 3 times?
She did include this video that I hadn’t seen. I’d imagine it’d be helpful to some but I’m positive I have a dud. #2 should be here today and I’ll follow up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEiJ2PZGorg
I’m done. Got the new one in today and either I’m completely incompetent and not capable of pressing a button 30 times in 8 seconds or the amazon seller I’m purchasing through is selling inferior imitations. The problem ,in my mind, has to be the unit. Not anything to do with the IDE. I say that because, regardless of any outside factor, the unit should go into pair mode. And either , a. There should be an easier method or b. There should be some definitive method described by manufacturer. I’ve seen different methods from individuals that are all over the map. SMH!!!