Here is an option by Cooper RF9534 or RF9536 with the slave switch RF9542 or RF9542-Z
FYI: Make sure to check ALL of the 3-way switch boxes and each of the lights boxes for the location of the neutral wire. The neutral location is basically where the electrician pulled the incoming power to. This is where the primary switch must be located because it needs to remain powered up at all times for it’s zwave/zigbee radio.
That being said it seems like in your case the incoming power will be at one of your lights? So instead of replacing the wall switches you could install the Aeon Labs DSC27103-ZWUS Light Dimmer (or the energy monitoring version) up inside the light box where the neutral/hot line is located and possibly re-use the existing wall switches for local on-off override but you could still dim from ST.
I have several old Intermatic HA20 dimmers. They don’t require neutral and work great with SmartThings. The best thing, you can use them in 3- or 4-way setup using regular dumb wall switches. Obviously, they only work with incandescent lightbulbs.
I haven’t personally used it because I have neutrals at my house but just do a search here in the forums and you will read on others that have successfully used it. As far as a 4-way yes (according to the device description) it is like the others where you can slave multiple units so that will easily do your 4way setup.
Hi, was wondering what device handler you are using? I found that only the Cooper 9500 gives instantaneous reporting. So if I turn on the switch by hitting the button, it reports back to the hub immediately. So this is great, but the issue is, when I try to turn on the light through the Smartthings app, it doesn’t work; it won’t actually turn on.
Just an update Since the new models have come on the market: there are now at least two brands of in wall micros which Can be installed at the switch and do not require a neutral, although you may need to use an additional “bypass” Device if the load is not at least 20 W.
Both of these are Z wave devices and are available in both the US and the UK.
Check the Aeotec “nano” line or the newest Fibaro dimmer modules.
Okay, but (again) the original question I asked here which started all this is that I have a three way switch and wanted to automate it without a ground. Putting this in at one switch won’t work, I don’t believe (because the other switch won’t work with it).
So my original question still stands – does anyone make a 3-way switch that doesn’t need a neutral? (And I know the answer is no, not now. So perhaps some day).
Is the box that’s giving you trouble a master or an aux switch? If it’s the aux, you can probably use one of the travelers for the neutral. The aux only needs one traveler and the neutral. You should already have (at least) two wires for a standard 3-way.