I can ask, but at this stage that means opening sheetrock, re-run wires, close sheetrock, plaster/mud, paint… it is I assume $1000 and 2+ weeks… at some point, you just want to be able to move back to your house…
Am I giving anything up by going Lutron @JDRoberts?
1/ Will I be able to do any-less with them if I later get a smartHub (z-wave automation wize) than if I went with a Z-wave light switch like leviton?
2/ Can Lutron work for the use case I described with no bridge at all? (thinking if I can fix the bathroom issue with Lutron but no bridge, and than not feel so bad to go the rest of the house with Leviton)
I like Lutron switches and use them in my own house. As far as a SmartThings installation goes, the main thing that you are giving up is the ability to operate the Lutron switches via SmartThings locally if the SmartThings cloud is not available. But you can still operate them locally via the Lutron app, so if the SmartThings cloud is down, you can still operate your Lutron switches. But you would lose, say, the ability to have a SmartThings – controlled motion sensor trigger a Lutron switch if the SmartThings cloud was not available. I operate my Lutron switches via HomeKit so I have full local control, but that’s a different situation.
The bridge issue is complicated. It’s true that you can add a pico remote as a virtual three-way auxiliary for a Lutron master switch without needing a bridge. But you need a Lutron SmartBridge to integrate with SmartThings. So if you don’t want an additional bridge, you need to stick with zwave.
Battery or Mains power
One other thing we haven’t mentioned yet, which is that the Lutron pico switches are battery powered, so you can literally put them anywhere. Cooper makes a similar Z wave device. (Eaton is the company, Cooper is the division, and aspire is the model line – – the same device might be listed under any of those three names.)
The other Z wave options like the go control don’t require physical traveler wires to the master, but they are mains-powered auxiliaries, so you do need to wire them into a circuit, which might not meet your requirements. But the Cooper is a good option. It Looks just like their regular wall switch.
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