Cheap chinese motorised projector screen with Fibaro roller shutter Module

I recently bought from amazon a 106" motorised projector screen, It was cheap at £90 but thought id give it a go. i decided to mount this in the ceiling. The screen came with a radio frequency remote and physical controls in line with the power lead. The lead to the motor is removable and i noticed it had 4 wires. I also knew one of the wires had to be an earth, so it must be a three wire motor ( i have to admit this was all guess work) Anyway I looked into the Fibaro roller shutter module, and that is setup to work with three wire motors, and I couldnt resist giving it a go, so i ordered it on a bit of a whim.

anyway the projector screen arrived and i spent the best part of two days ripping up the floor above to fit it into the ceiling. got everything fitted and the screen working on the original controller and remote. then the fibaro arrived.

I snipped the wiring loom and cut out the OEM controller and radio receiver, and stripped the wires back to see what I had.

from the plug to the controller i had,

Green/yellow earth
Brown Live
Blue Neutral

pretty standard stuff (in the uk), From the controller to the motor I had

green/yellow
Brown
Blue
Black

my thoughts at this time (with no testing equipment, dont shout at me):

greet yellow will be earth
Brown will be live motor in one directrion
Blue is likley to be motor neutral because why change the colour of neutral?
Black will probably be live motor other direction, so thats how i wired up the module.

anyway, I switched it on, assigned it to the smart things, hub, and pressed down and the screen moved all the way down to the limit switch, perfect, now for up, pressed the button and… nothing

the screen stayed down, i played with differnt device types and setting the motor to learn, but the motor wouldnt work, eventually i had to assume the wiring was in correct.

I figured if anything was going to be swapped around, it would be blue and black, black used to be the colour of neutral in the uk, but again it was more of a guess. anyway, swapped the colours around, swithed it on and voilla! the screen worked as expected.

the only thing i did was change the way its wired, so that when the screen is open it shows as on, and when the screen is closed, it shows as off. Currenlty this works with a dimmer device type, does anyone know of one that works better? i did find one in a search but it didnt seem complete. ill try to attach some images below.





3 Likes



1 Like

Good job!

I solved this same problem by using Thing Shield, Arduino, and low frequency (315mhz) RF module though, so I wouldn’t have to risk touching or breaking the screen wiring at all.

It was worth the slight extra trouble because I added RS-232 to the same Arduino to turn the projector on/off/daylight/night mode, and I watch the 12v trigger out line from the projector too, so the Arduino can directly send the screen down RF signal, making the system run 100% offline, in case SmartThings is down.

1 Like

Lots of big screens going up. I just went 120" I did the same thing using a IR to relay board wired to the screen control box, so my harmony does the up and down. Which also means if smartthings goes down I’m still good.

1 Like

all great ways to get the job done! i couldnt go any bigger than 106" as it wouldn’t have fit in the room!

the fibaro does allow a hard wired switch using momentary one for up and one for down, which doesnt require smart things to be up, but thats a project for another day.

i was thinking about wiring up simple zwave sensor to get the 12v feed from the projector, would be nice to get the screen to come down when the projector goes on.

1 Like

Arduino’s are pretty darn cheap … though the $35 Thing Shield is relatively expensive and mostly out of stock.
But with Particle Photon, can use WiFi instead.

I just Ohms Law the 12v trigger down to 4v and watch for it on a digital in, and if the screen ain’t already down, issue a couple down commands on the 315Mhz RF. No SmartThings involved … but I do send an update on the ThingShield to tell the DTH screen is down so it can be toggled “off” (up).

And all Virtual Switched linked to Amazon Echo… “Alexa, turn screen on”.

im looking into this again at the moment, I have a dell s300w projector, it has network and wifi, the web interface allows you to turn on and off the projector after log in and it has a built in Crestron for that smart setup. It also has an RS232 port. and it has SNMP and the 12v out for screen control.

Im trying to figure out what the easyest way is to link the screen and projector up, probably via smart things, so if the projector goes on, the screen comes down or if the screen goes down the projector comes on etc.

at the moment the screen is controllable via smart things, but i still have to find the remote or standup to turn the projector on and off.

Ive never used or programmed an arduino, so im not sure how easy that would be for me, although i think i did find the documented rs232 commands online somewhere for this projector. but with so much connectivity, i would have thought there must be an easy way to send some kind of packet to the projector for control. unfortunately I cant find an .mib files for this one as it can be monitored via SNMP and possibly controlled too

Is the fibaro only for EU? I have a similar setup and would like to integrate to ST US model.
Thanks

I know this thread is 2 years old but i’m planning to do exactly the same for our new house build at the moment so thought I would give it a bump.

I’ve found a cheap screen on Amazon which looks suitable for our purposes (https://amzn.to/2zZW9Mk/), sadly only 92" as we don’t have the viewing distance for anything bigger without it being uncomfortable. Would this work the same as the OP has done using a Fibaro Roller Shutter 2 module? Have no need for the in-line control box and remote so would do as OP and cut this off and wire in a Fibaro and then connect to a wall switch for manual backup control. Does anyone see a problem with this before I order?

Thanks

Nick

As I’m in the UK i can’t see your link, just redirects me to the amazon home page.

it would be hard for anyone to say if it will work with a particular screen without testing the wiring, and ive no idea how you would do that, there was no way of me really knowing.

however, if your screen has 4 wires in it (one will be an earth) the chances are the motor will be a three wire, you’ll need to check in between the original controller and the screen, not between the controller and wall plug.

if between the controller at the motor you only have three wires youll have to find out if one is an earth. with the module i used it supported three wire motors but not two wire motors as it cant reverse the polarity. at a guess tho its more likely its a three wire motor as most are.

my set up is still working great!

For some reason I never saw the reply on this and forgot all about it :man_facepalming:

Here is the direct link again to the screen I am looking at, hopefully it works this time!

Did you get any further with triggering the screen to come down when you turn on the projector? Would be interested in this as well once I get it all set up.

Nick

hi nick itr does look very similar to mine, but its really hard to knwo if it will work, my only suggestion woudl be to buy it and try to figure out if its a 3 wire motor and send it back if it is (it probably is)

mine is still working years later, i never did get it to trigger via the projector but i think with a newer projector it might be easy, as i can just lower mine with voice ive just always done that which has worked great