CentraLite Keypads

So when in doubt, drink bourbon?

Works for me. :beers:

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Send him a private message, he is very reasonable and should help.

I have sent a private message to @Geko suggesting to him, not demanding for two updates to Smart Alarm.

  1. I would like to see some feedback either through my iPhone when the door is opened that has a delay, this way it reminds me to disarm the alarm from the keypad. I feel this is important in making this a true alarm. Even flash a light on and off two or three times

  2. I asked him to integrate the Centralite keypad and IRIS version into the app as he has done with the Minimote.

Not sure what response I will get, but I feel that the 1st suggestion, is very important in making Smart Alarm a true alarm.

I received a very candid answer from Geko telling me that he created SA in the summer of 2014 when there were no home security app available for ST. He said ST released SHM and they want that to be the main one and they made partnerships with Scout and ADT Canopy. SHM is tightly integrated with SmartThings Framework using their own undocumented APIs, so he has stopped development of SA.

Many of us are worried that ST is moving away from allowing our own third party apps and the development of such. I hope that ST isn’t planning to make everything pay for use such as they are doing with the cameras. If they do this with the SHM making us pay for monitoring etc, it will be the end. The reason many of us went with ST was the promise that it would be open framework allowing our own innovation, but things are looking grim to say the least. It would be nice if ST came out and told us what the future will bring. At least then we can decide to purchase more or find another platform.

SmartThings isn’t preventing anyone from developing anything they want, just sounds like Geko doesn’t see it as being worth the work to keep SA updated when SHM is built into the system.

I guess that came out wrong, what I meant to say is I think ST is moving to the Pay to Play model as they are going to do with the cameras on the IP. Smart Home Monitor is closed so the community can’t add what is missing without layer upon layer of device handlers and smart Apps which just slows down the system. I hope that makes more sense.

Don’t get me wrong but I love ST and hope it is around for a long time to come. But they have to make their platform better to compete with all the other Home Automation systems. I love tinkering that is why I picked ST for my platform. Things have to move and improve to bring in customers. If and I say if since nobody knows other than ST waht they have planned, but I hope it isn’t the monthly fee if you want the alarm etc.

They’ve already stated that they won’t charge for any base features, only for non-essential add-ons like camera cloud storage and security monitoring.

I guess I never viewed that info, all I knew was there was going to be a charge for the camera storage, I didn’t know about the alarm. If they don’t charge for self monitoring then I have nothing to worry about. That is a relief, now I just hope they update SHM to be a real alarm, with built in delays etc. I appreciate the info as that takes a lot of anxiety away.

Today was one of those bad V1 days disconnections from network. I thought it was my router, so I put in a new spare same problem, then I changed the cables, then the network switch, still having disconnects. I have all my other WiFi devices work fine, no loss of internet just connection to hub. It has been reported. Today alone I must have had 10 to 15 disconnects. The temp of the hub goes up around 20 degrees just before it disconnects. I have a fan on the hub now and I read the temp with an infrared remote temp gauge, like the ones used to monitor motor temp. All it takes is one cold solder connection and the power supply goes wacky or something else. I hope it isn’t my hub failing.

Anyone else have their panel working, but have the off button slightly glowing dim to bright to dim red all the time when in off mode. What is it trying to tell me?

My buttons are totally off until I move my hand in front of the top group of lights. I wish it was able to be adjusted so I wouldn’t have to wave.

Mine glows whatever mode it is in. On glows. Partial glows… off glows… not sure how or why or if there is a reason it is doing it other than being really user friendly.

I just checked again none of my lights are on until I move my hand in front of the sensor all the keyboard buttons light and the state Off, Partial, ON whichever it is is lit. So I assume mine is working fine.

This is how my keypad works as well and everything else is functioning as intended. I kind of prefer it this way from a battery use perspective. Maybe would be nice for the iris logo to remain lit since it would give me a quick view of whether the system is armed or disarmed based on its color.

I agree, but battery life is important. I would also love to figure out how to adjust the sensor sensitivity so I don’t have to wave a few times.

At least on the Xfinity version, this is handled on the hardware itself. It’s outlined in the manual, I believe.

I will look for the manual, maybe it will work the same way. I doubt it. There is no A & B button so I tried the Star and the Panic but nothing. I will look on the Lowes page.

UPDATE: Nothing in Lowes Manual to adjust so I guess I just move my hand close to keypad and that is it.

http://forum.livingwithiris.com/index.php?/topic/1840-psa-calibrate-the-proximity-sensor-on-v2-keypads/ has some info on calibration with the Iris version. Also, I beleive 2 & 5 controll the volume of the device as well.

Has anyone had sight of one of these, apparently Yale have a version of it, for me it is the ideal solution for home acceptance, battery operated, shows state and simple rfid to activate deactivate.

http://climax.manufacturer.globalsources.com/si/6008800221031/pdtl/Access-control/1059514193/ZigBee-Remote-Keypad.htm

Tried that no difference, I just have to put my hand in front of the two holes in the front for a split second and it lights, but I wanted it to work from a distance.

Looks promising, but since it doesn’t mention if it will work on USA frequencies or UK frequencies and someone would need to create a device type, it is another promising unknown.