[BETA] Z-Wave Tweaker (See post #209 for new V3 app version)

Fibaro devices offer lots of customization options, but that also means there are lots of parameters you may need to check the settings of beyond simple association. :thinking:

See the following recent thread (the topic title is a clickable l8nk)

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thanks @JDRoberts I’ll review the suggested post and hopefully I can find an answer there.

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Did you ever get this working?

How about you, did you get this working?

No I have no idea what information to put in these fields =(

I think I may have figured it out, but I accidentally bought the wrong “companion” switch. I bought it from Lowe’s and they take returns. But I’m pretty fed up with tweaking, and others have recommended the Leviton switches. I have the required “traveler” wires, so I’m planning to just return the Eaton switches and replace them with Leviton switches.

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What are you trying to do? You don’t setup anything for a wired ‘accessory’ switch using a traveller. Zwave direct association is only for linking two ZWave devices wirelessly.

If you do need direct association, In group 2 of the controlling device in all but a few circumstances, you will put the ZWave network ID (in Hexadecimal) for the device you want to control…

Eaton Cooper doesn’t use traveler wires: their accessory switches control the master through Zwave direct association. Hence the Tweaker significance.


This varies tremendously from manufacturer to manufacturer. You need to look up how they have set the association groups for that specific model. For example, some will do on/off in group 2 but do multi level switches (dimmers) in a different group. Some use group 2 for tamper alerts. some Z wave devices use up to 14 different association groups for different purposes. So it’s tedious, but you do need to check the specs for each model.

If you can’t find them anywhere else, they are required to be filed with the conformance statement when the device is Z wave certified, so the information should be available on the official Z wave products site.


For example:

Who was that question for? I understand that I don’t need to set up anything for a wired ‘accessory’ switch using a traveller. That’s exactly why I was planning to swap the Eaton dimmer switches out for Leviton switches (Leviton can use my traveller wire).

But since I haven’t yet removed the Leviton switches, I may try your suggestion. I did configure the controlling device, but not using “group 2”. I’ll take one more crack at it.

Meanwhile, it looks like @Corydon_Kintz could still use some help.

Beginning with Z wave plus devices, association group one is now reserved as the “lifeline“ group and in most cases should only have the hub in it. No other device. It’s used for important status updates, but not anything else.

It is allowed to also add the hub to other association groups, and this is often done so that The hub is notified as devices are turned on and off so it can keep the app status up-to-date. Again, though, check the specs to make sure you know what each association group is supposed to do for that particular model.

@nathancu is absolutely right that a common mistake is to open the Tweaker and just start adding things to association group one, and that’s hardly ever what you want to do. :thinking:

And, yes, all this requires knowing a whole lot more about the “plumbing“ then you should need to know to just get water out of the kitchen faucet.

Most Zwave hubs make setting up associations really simple. You open up the trigger device page, you pick the other devices you want it to control, and you’re done.

But from the beginning, smartthings has had this multi protocol design philosophy where they try to hide all the plumbing which is why the community has had to come up with tools for power users like the Tweaker. Which is a fantastic tool and has been very valuable over the years, but not really designed for non-power users.

As has often been said of smartthings, it’s very powerful, but not very intuitive.


It’s looking more and more like Home Assistant, to me. :wink: If I’m going to spend my days learning an automation platform, that (or Hubitat) would be it.



I am new to this. Just purchased all zwave switch (eaton) for my new house. However the 3 way switches will not work.

Short of manually updating the code has anyone found a way to make this work?

Justin, I had the same problem. I was using the Eaton wiring diagrams that are included with the switches. Somehow a Cooper wiring diagram was included in one of my switches. I used it and it worked.

Not sure but somehow Cooper and Eaton are connected. Maybe one bought the other out, not really sure


Cooper is owned by Eaton.


Eaton is the company, Cooper is the division, Aspire is the model line.

A device may be sold under any of these names or any combination of them. So “Eaton Cooper,” “Eaton Aspire,” “Cooper Aspire,” etc. :sunglasses:

Cooper Industries was originally founded in the 1830s. It was acquired by Eaton in 2012.