Best option for adding a neutral line to a switch box

You’ll need to figure out (with a multi-meter) which are your:

  • Line (power-in)
  • Neutral (if you have it)
  • Load (goes to your lights/socket/etc)
  • Traveler

This will involve lots of turning the switches on/off from both places to see what still has power and when.

Once you have a clear picture of those, you can see what you need to do. The one thing you just have to bear in mind is that colors don’t necessarily mean what you think they mean. (e.g. white can mean neutral, but as I found out in my home, some can use it for Load as well)

I currently have two illuminated switches. At the main switch location I have 2 black wires and a red wire and a bunch white wires in a lug nut. At the second location I have 3 wires red, black and white. I had initial bought two of the same smart dimmer switches and had started to hook up one at the second location with the red, black and white wire after hooking it up I had power to the Switch when pressing the dinner button the status light would go down but the lights didn’t respond to the dimmer switch. I didn’t hook the other one up because I was confused as to why it didn’t work. Could it be that I need to hook up a master and a slave.

Which switches are trying to install? GE? Different manufacturers do 3-way switches differently (GE has one switch/dimmer+Add-on switches). All of these require a neutral connection.

leviton dw6hd-1bz and dd00r-dlz

Ok from a cursory glance it looks similar to the way GE connects.

But I won’t be able to tell you from the picture how to wire it, you’ll need to determine which wires do what in your wall boxes. If you don’t have a multi meter, get one, set it to voltage, touch one probe to ground and the other to the different screw terminals and start flipping the switches. You’ll figure out which screw terminal is always hot (Line), your current travelers (2 wires that make a 3 way situation work), and which is Load (goes to your light). The bundle of white wires is likely your neutral, but you’ll want to confirm that.

And according to the directions, the dimmer must be installed in the box that has your load wire, and the remote will need to be installed where your Line is. Like in my goofy situation above, they sometimes might be in the same box and you have to rewire them to get the line and load separated.

Oh also, have you confirmed that your switch will work with Smart things? I see that it’s a WiFi switch.