You’re right! But it is a feature
I’ve had great luck with the GE switches and have bought them from Amazon. I agree with the poster who commented on the look and feel. They look and operate like normal light switches, but they are smart!
Personally I could use either a paddle or a toggle but I have strange switch configurations like this that I think mandates toggle switches. My kitchen switches are even more strange and I’m not sure how to make any switch fit. I’ll take a picture tonight and see if anyone can recommend what to do.
Now that I’m looking at that pic I realize the two on the left are the same as my kitchen switches but they are turned 90 degrees. What can I do with switches like that?
They do make these switches, but they’re not smart.
In wall relays may work if you have the room. You may also just be able to cut in a bigger gang box.
This is what I meant by cut in a new gang box.
Two choices. Either use a dual micro relay in the wall behind the existing switches, or replace the switch with one of the euro style momentary button switches which will have two momentary buttons on it, one for one switch and one for the other. See the FAQ.
Control one or two switches with just a single click! Vision In-Wall Switch is super small and easy to install with pigtail wiring.
Control one or two switches with just a single click! Vision In-Wall Switch is super small and easy to install with pigtail wiring."
I’ve not had much luck with this switch. I tried to use it for a ceiling fan with a light kit. Since SmartThings can’t control both end points natively, you need a smart app that uses virtual switches. For me, they kept getting out of sync.
**Edit - No idea why I can’t quote the post above correctly.
Are those in wall relays hard to wire up? Or would going to the euro style be the easiest?
Can you recommend a euro style?
Another inline option: Inline Zigbee On/Off Device for about $12. I’ve had it working for a couple weeks and seems reliable for the moment. However, it is a no-name direct-from-China product, so lone-term reliability is unknown.
But for @12, it is a third the cost of mainstream devices with the same capability.
But not the same safety certifications. Speaking just for myself, I don’t wire anything to the mains that doesn’t have ETL or UL certification. (Both Vision and Aeotec Nano are ETL certified for most models.) just sayin’…
CE certified (EU). I don’t know which standard is more rigorous, but if typical EU 220V is safe, then 120V is probably safe as well.
I just replied to this in another thread this morning. The CE standard is a good one, but it’s self certifyIng.
I see that many Smartthings users recommend the Jasco switches (i.e., GE, other brands). I started installing these three years, and initially they worked perfectly. However, I have replaced 4 over the past for months.
The switch bricks when the power goes out / comes back on. The relay starts to simply blink (sounds like the turn signal in your car) about once every second. Whatever ever you are controlling (in my case, Philips Hue lights) blinks on and off from the surge of power every second. You can stop the flickering by pulling out the air gap tab, but the switch is bricked.
Having now replaced 4 of these, each of which cost about $45, I’m looking for alternatives to Jasco. Any recommendations?
If you think of devices as good, better, best, then the Jasco/GE switches are a budget brand, solidly in the middle of the “good“ category.
But I’m really surprised that you had to pay $45 for them, they are usually cheaper than that. Where are you buying them from?
Anyway, there are lots of better engineered switches, but they do typically cost more. And there are some other budget brands which Seem to be a little better quality, specifically zooz.
I personally like and use lutron Caseta light switches, which are at the high-end of the “better“ or low-end of the “best“ categories. But I will pay more for better engineering.
Have you had a chance to look at the device class features FAQ? That has a discussion of light switches starting around post 40 in that thread:
Also…were your Jasco switches out of the warranty period. If so, yeah, that can happen. . But I would also have your wiring checked, because one of the things that can make it happen is electrical surges.
That’s super helpful. Thank you!
Yes, they were out of warranty, but it is still disappointing to have had so many fail. Ford and GM used to design products with planned obsolescence, but I had sort of hoped that one could buy wall switches that would last a lifetime. Of course, most wall switches aren’t packed with circuitry.
My conclusion is the same as yours: the power surge when the circuit breaker is turned back on is frying the electronics. I don’t think it’s my wiring per se. I live in a new condo in Palo Alto, so things should be up to code. However, a power surge is the only reason I can think of that turning the circuit breaker on and off (I was working on another electrical outlet) might blow the the switch.
I bought most of these from Amazon. However, I’ll try the Lutron Caseta switches. Thanks for that - it is the guidance I was looking for. As I recall, these need a dedicated hub. However, so do my Philips bulbs, so I don’t see any issue with that. I agree 100%: I’m happy to pay more for better engineering.
Thank you again for the helpful and timely response.
Also, definitely shop around. The specialty retailers are often less expensive than Amazon for this kind of equipment. And there are likely to be some sales for Labor Day.