Bali Blind upper and lower limits

I installed Bali blinds during Covid. Some the blinds (especially those mounted within the window frame era), have stretched and/or creeped enough that full open is partially closed and/or two side by side blinds don’t align when open/closed. While I have thought about reprogramming that through the device remote, I’ve found that solution to be rather painful. The current drivers that I’m aware of drive the blind to the “open” or “closed” position. In some of my routines, I’ve figured out the % and am using that; however, they are reported as being “open”, even though they are effectively closed. I was wondering if any of the drivers have an offset that could be applied to remedy this?

I can’t speak to Bali blinds directly, but I have 4 Yoolax roller shades and 11 tilt/blind wands. Those constraints I’ve had to use the device remote to set the upper and lower limits with the blind or tilt device itself. Then ST’s Open/Close commands or follow the settings in the blind motors. ST’s doesn’t have anyway to set the limits that I’m aware of. I agree, setting those on my roller shades was a terrible experience, but that was the only way I could get them to work correctly. My tilt blinds are much easier to program, but again that is where I had to set those limits.

Sounds the same on the Bali blinds. I was figuring if ST can run a blind to 98%, then it could define that as “open”, with a 2% offset. May not be an ideal solution, but the hassle of starting over on the remote and the program is not worth it.

It is well worth the time to setup the blind remote (i have 12 (mine are Graber. But Bali, Graber and a few other brands are ALL Springs Window Fashion blinds - the brand denotes how you got it)

and all of them have a remote in the drawer with the batteries removed and I find I have to rest the limits on the about once a year because of temp adjustments.

I have been able to successfully join the remote to the blind After the blind has been joined without having to completely reset the blind (usually because I reset it before joining) so if it’s sitting on your ST hub it’s basically ready for step 3 in the remote join process.

You’ll reset the remote (the long press until it stops blinking red) then join it to SmartThings (have no clue what driver you’ll get) but it doesn’t matter you just want the remote on the ST net. Then you do the quick press pairing on the remote (blinking green) and the join press (blinking green) on the blind.

Once you finish resetting the limits pull the battery out of the remote label it and throw it in the drawer for next year.

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These are good suggestions, as the remote sucks too much battery life and I thought I had to go back through the entire process again. I’ll try this when I’ve got some free time…

Well, this post jinxed me. One of my roller shades was offline today. After I reset it, it lost all of its settings. That’s two hours of my life I won’t get back again. The broken english in the manual is terrible. I’ve updated it as best I can. The last thing was the channel #, took me over an hour to figure out what they called it and what it really does. Arrrgh. Anyway, I got mine reprogrammed and it was as awful as ever getting them to work. Good luck with yours :slight_smile:

Sorry about that. I may hold off until it’s really bad!