Any light switches for 2 wire that work direct with ST, no extra hub?

Zwave / zigbee devices, like all smart switches, will require constant current in order to work, hence if they operate without a neutral then they have to pass a small amount of current through the light at all times. This is the standby current to operate.

For some bulbs this standby current makes them glow all the time and never turn off, even when the switch says it should be off. Normally better quality bulbs will let this happen without turning on, otherwise you need a choke style device, and sometimes both. Obviously all devices drawing a standby current will consume a bit more power than if they had a neutral, since that current had to pass through the bulb aswell, and hence are less efficient.

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Hi Davveboyy

I’m interested in the Yagusmart Zigbee Smart Wall Light Switch too. About to order.

Qn - my existing 3 gang light has no neutral and 3 Common Live wires, each wired to its own separate Common Live connections - would I join all to “LIn” on the switch? Or just one of them?

Qn2 - there is another (2) switches has operate two of the lights on this 3 light switch - will they also need smart switches? must they be the same vendor? Seen cheaper ones and the other light switches have a neutral wire.

Thanks in advance

Can I ask how the Yagusmart Zigbee Smart Wall Light Switch is going?

Indeed just ordered a 1 gang and 2 gang, I presume they are the same, no neutral required etc?

For the 2 gang do you need these type at both ends, eg the stairs, or if only 1 smart switch needed?

If I need a choke is it any I can use? Any on Amazon UK you can recommend? Can they be placed anywhere?

Thanks

Can you upload some side profile pictures of these switches? Want to see how deep the switch gear are. Many thanks!

I’ve ordered 2 of the Yagusmart type, a 1 gang and a 2 gang. Hope they work.

Chokes are typically calibrated to work at the frequency of the main switching IC inside the smart plug/module… They arent complex as far as electronics go, quite the opposite in being super simple, but are normally tuned to specific frequencies to match the ‘parent’ device.

Suggest working on the assumption a good bulb will mean you don’t need one, but if you find it is always glowing then I’ll happily help with what I can. Sometimes you need to look at the main switching IC inside the device and then look at its specifications to work out what choke would work (there arent too many different frequencies which are common).

Over the weekend I installed a 2 gang light switch from www.wifi-smart-home.co.uk, easy to install… shallow enough to easily fit into the standard sockets… I used the manufacturers specified eWelink app to set it up and then I set up a simulated switch in SmartThings and used IFTTT to bridge between SmartThings and eWelink… works a treat…

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When it comes to the Yagusmart and other types, Is it possible with 2 and 3 gang switches to:

  • Use 1 light wired, and control it with the button and smartthings
  • Use the other buttons simply as smartthings buttons

I have 3 different light sources in my bedroom, and only 1 of them is wired where I want the switch, so the other 2 sources will just be smart buttons.

It’s not really clear if that works, so just wanted to clarify if that’s the case.

Do you need a capacitor connects to your light bulb to prevent flickering since it is not required neutral wire? Do you get the capacitor in the package?
I am new to Smartthings so did you use the new mobile app to link it or you have to go on the IDE ?

Very interesting, I’d not seen that one before. Do you have a wiring diagram, I couldn’t find one on the site.

It’s certainly possible to do this, Lutron does in the US, but Lutron holds a patent on it here which limits other manufacturers from using their method.

Not a switch as such but a dimmer that doesn’t require a neutral is the Aurora AOne ZigBee Dimmer. I have just got one and (if I can figure out how to turn the annoying blue LED on it off) will certainly be getting some more. Expensive but not as expensive as some others and as it is an “all in one” dimming switch, it’s nice and easy to install - simply a replacement for an existing dimmer or switch.

Unfortunately I don’t have the wiring diagram as I threw it out when I was done, in any event it wires up exactly the same as a standard light switch, the only extra piece is the fitting of a filter across the terminals at the light where
it enters the ceiling – that consisted of two wires with one wire to both power wires at the bulb socket… My switch is controlling some LED downlights and worked without the filter, I also fitted a single gang in the bathroom which also has downlighters but
there the bulbs are quite old cfl type and without the filter the lights were staying on…

Ok, it sounds like it works the same way as the aeotec with a bypass. That would make sense. Thank you!

Can you suggest a bypass/choke on Amazon UK please. It’s just in case, I don’t want to wire the switch, find I need one, and then have to remove.

I’d rather have one and not use it, than not have one ready. It’s UK so 240V. Most of my LEDs are 6W I think. Some controlled will have 3 lamps, another room if I choose this one is 9 lamps in.

Thanks

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