So I just connected up the remote to the GE link bulbs and it works perfectly for me. I’m going to change all my switches to these remotes using and mounting kit and I’ll be happy.
@Tomforti Did you try the Lutron remote with the osram lightify bulbs? Mine did not respond at all to the remote - prior to pairing the bulb with smartthings, afterwards, resetting everything, etc. I was also unable to pair the lightify bulbs with my hue bridge but there had been other things happening with compatibility due to Philips firmware. I wonder of the lightify bulbs I have are ZHA. I’ve seen other posts about differences & interoperability but I’m a bit lost with it all to be honest.
I didn’t not yet. Been a little crazy the last week. I’m off the next couple of days and I’m going to direct wire everything and remove the switches. Then replace the switches with the wall brackets. While doing all this I’ll check and see if the osram bulbs work and will get back to you.
http://thd.co/1Bn9vbD - the wall brackets for the remotes.
I have several rooms with BR30/recessed cans. I love those wall brackets. They fit seamlessly into Decora plates and look and act ‘normal’. I have 2 rooms running Hues w/Lutron switches. There are a couple GE Links in there too although they are in the basement because the lady doesn’t like the way the light falls, not being frosted. This setup works great from a Hue perspective although updated states in ST don’t always go through.
I have been hung up on replacing other BR30’s due to Hue cost and the lack of another BR30 smart frosted bulb.
For all the other recessed cans I have normal dimmable LED’s with Leviton DZM dimmers but the lady doesn’t like the build quality of the dimmer control - which I don’t disagree with. http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Decora-Controls-Universal-DZMX1-1LZ/dp/B00LEWQY6C/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1451402126&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=leviton+dzc
So the goal was to replace the LED’s and Z Wave switch combos with Lutron Connected remotes & Lightify (frosted/difused) smart BR30’s. This is great because it offers a normal switch/dimmer approach for guests, full control over lights, and with the local zigbee mesh the remote creates, it still works in the event of network issues as far as i can tell.
But I get no love with the Lightify bulbs on either the Hue bridge or the Lutron Connected remote at this point.
@510dick so I had no luck with my osram bulbs remote doesn’t see them. I got my GE Link bulbs in my bedroom working today. I did have 2 issues though. One I fixed which was when the bulbs were turned off by the remote, one of the two bulbs’ status wasn’t going back to the ST, it thought the bulb was still on. I corrected this by deleting the bulb from ST, resetting the bulb, repairing it with ST and finally reconnecting it to the remote. The other issues I have, which isn’t a big one for me. Is that when the bulbs are turned off with the remote an “on” command sent to the bulbs don’t turn them on. The status will change from off to on however the dimmer level says 25% however it must really be 0% because there’s no light. Only changing the dimmer level will get the bulb to turn on, even if you slide it to the same 25%. So a solution I think that will fix this is to put something in the bulbs device type to set a dimmer lever of 50% when an “on” command is sent via ST. This really is only an issue for me when I use my echo to say “turn bedroom lights on”. If I say dim bedroom lights to 90% it works fine. Also with my good morning routine I just have to say dim a bulb and not just turn the bulb on. Finally the only issue with this setup is if the power shuts off and goes back on the bulbs will be full on, but I have been in the house for 2 years now and only lost power once, knock on wood.
The Osrams don’t seem to be able to do the Touchlink join process with the remote, but there’s sort of a workaround. If you manually add the Osram to the group number broadcast by the remote, it will accept and respond to the commands. You can get the group number by sending a Get Group Membership command to one of the GE Links connected to a particular remote. Then send an Add Group to the Osrams with the group id you get from the other bulb.
It’s definitely a bit hacky, but I already wrote most of a helper SmartApp and new Lutron devicetype to facilitate it. I didn’t post it because there are 2 things I couldn’t solve within the SmartApp/Devicetype combo: 1) Getting the groupId you have to use Live logging and have a debug statement in the parse of the bulb connected to the Lutron to capture the response from the Get Group command 2) Endpoints don’t seem to be part of the device object, so I can’t pull them directly from the input bulbs. You have to know what endpoint they use and input it manually.
I’ll try to post the code and instructions when I’m home if you want to give it a try.
Here is the code. In order to do this, you will update the devicetype of your Lutron Remote, then install a new instance of the SmartApp. Start Live Logging, then fill in the top 3 items, selecting your remote, a bulb it’s paired to, and the endpoint of that bulb (GE Links are 1). It will send a message to the selected bulb to get its Group membership. In the logs you should see a message like below. This is the group membership response. (If you don’t see this message, make sure the devicetype code has a log statement at the start of the parse section. Otherwise the endpoint is probably wrong.) This message says that there are 6 group slots open, 2 filled and then the 4 digit Ids of the groups. Your response should only have 1 group Id, which you would fill in the new input field. If you have more, it’s possible that bulb was paired to multiple Lutron remotes or to the same remote multiple times. You will most likely want the last 4 digits.
trace catchall: 0104 0004 01 01 0000 00 E305 01 00 0000 02 01 0602DD3B5567
Pick the other bulbs you want to add and enter the endpoint for them (My Lightify TW was endpoint 3). They must all be the same type of bulb. If you need to bulbs of different types, use another instance of the SmartApp. Once press Done in the SmartApp, it will also add the GroupId to the Lutron Remote deviceType for easy reference later. You can ignore the Live Logging step if you know the GroupId already.
Thanks @Sticks18 and @Tomforti for this! I think I understand most of what you are saying and doing. I’ll have to wait a couple weeks unfortunately, because I’m out of town for a bit but I’ll give it a go when I’m back.
Unfortunately I have many hues on the hue hub with the Lutron remote connected like it’s a Philips remote. It works well but I have some states that don’t update and therefore some routines that don’t actually turn the bulbs off, etc. I guess to use this I’ll need to pair them all to the ST hub and eventually ditch the hue hub. Seems I have to choose between the stability of the hue hub and its scenes capability or the consistency of using ST.
Thought I would update anyone that’s thinking about using this remote.
Last week I changed my bedrooms, dining room and sunroom to the GE link bulbs with remote (2 remotes in the sunroom, use to have a 3 way dimmer). Because each fan has 2 bulbs in them I am using the trend setter smartapp to control each fan group. As of right now the bulbs have updated their status perfectly and haven’t been out of sync. And being able to set up the 2 remotes in the sunroom was nice In order to simply replace the wall dimmer with a remote.
This is working for me now, too. I had to update my GE Link device type. I used this device type:
You know I forgot to mention that I was using that device type as well.
Anyone keeping states in synch correctly with Cree bulbs?
I’m new to SmartThings, transitioning over from a Staples Connect. One thing I’m still using with the SC is Lutron Pico remotes to control some Hue lights (in a “three-way switch” type set up). Is this something that ST can now with this code? Or is it a while until this is fully baked?
Anyway to use one of these as a button controller?
Unfortunately not at this time. This remote only sends outbound group messages, and it doesn’t respond to bindings like the Hue Dimmer Switch. It’s on ST’s Zigbee roadmap to add support for group messages, but I expect it will be a while before we can directly see what this remote is doing.
Exactly my question too—can this device be a 4 button controller. I don’t want the device as a bulb remote. I want to set it up as a four button controller that I can mount in a switch plate. I may want one button to control a light and another to turn on a device. I was able to get the Iris Smart Fob to do this. But the form factor isn’t what I want.
It might not be what you want, but The SmartenIT 3 toggle makes a nice battery-operated wall switch with good SmartThings functionality, but it’s only 3 buttons, not 4.
Looks nice! Wasn’t specifically looking for 4 buttons. Thx.
My first post on this community, so please excuse my ignorance
What does it mean when you say: "I had to update my GE Link device type. I used this device type:
My GE Link Bulb v2"
I’ve paired a number of GE Link devices to my SmartThings v2 hub, then made them available to Amazon Echo. Everything was working perfectly - voice control of on/off and dimming, and I grouped 7 kitchen lights into ‘kitchen’ so I could address them all together with Echo.
But then I paired each of the 7 GE Link bulbs to a Lutron connected bulb remote. It then controlled the bulbs wonderfully - on/off and fully dimming capability. But now all the bulbs are completely out of sync with ST and Amazon Echo. ST and Echo can no longer control the bulbs at all.
Even removing the bulb from ST and trying to re-pair with ST doesn’t work, no matter how many times I screw in/unscrew the bulb, turn power off then back on, etc. ST just doesn’t find these bulbs anymore.
Is this because each bulb can only pair with one Zigbee device, which is now the Lutron remote as that’s the latest device that paired with it? Is that why ST can’t even find the GE Link bulbs anymore, because they’re paired with the Lutron remote?
Or is it because I need to update the GE Link device type, as the post I referred to says? If so, are there any instructions on how I might go about doing that?
Any help would be appreciated. I seem to have this experience that any time a second device takes control of a bulb (e.g. a Hue Tap controlling Hue bulbs that were paired to ST), ST can no longer control that bulb. That’s exactly what happened to my Hue bulbs when I use a Hue Tap to operate them: ST falls out of sync and then just loses complete control over those Hue bulbs. Re: this Hue incompatibility, I’ve filed a report of this recently to ST and a ST rep told me he’d look into it, and that he’d heard about this issue before.
Does ST only work with devices if it’s the sole controller of it?
Also, the original post seems to indicate one can pair the Lutron remote to the ST hub instead of directly to the bulb using the code provided - could anyone provide any instructions on how to even go about doing this to a complete newbie? I’m not sure how to use an ‘alpha device handler’ - any reference would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance.
The Lutron remote and the Hue Tap both can create their own zigbee networks, so when you pair them directly to a bulb, the bulb gets “stolen” from ST. If you pair the Lutron remote to ST before pairing it to bulbs, then it will work within the ST network. Your bulbs will need to report their status back to ST because the Lutron remote talks directly to the GE Links, which is why the one user needed to change the devicetype of his GE Links. You may find that they work well for you once you get the Lutron paired to ST before pairing to the GE Links. Same would be true for the Hue Tap, although I don’t know specifically if the Hue Tap can join the ST network.
Your steps: 1) Reset your GE Links, and pair with ST again (you shouldn’t need to delete them from the ST app or anything. They will hopefully resume their old identity with ST.) 2) Reset and pair the Lutron remote to ST. 3) Pair the Lutron remote to the GE Links