[Alpha] Lutron Connected Bulb Remote

Thank you for your response. I did find the endpoint after a bit of poking around but I was not aware of how to find the GroupId without your response. I followed your instructions but the remote is not working on the GE Link bulb (v2 device type). It showed the GroupId and even laid it out in a stand-alone line of log. There were two catchalls in quick succession for what look to me like the same device. Neither start with 0701, and the last 4 were both 0800 which is what i used in the lutron smart app. It also now shows 0800 Group ID under the Lutron Device in IDE. But no worky with the buld. Any thoughts here?

Here are my logs from starting live logging until something irrelevant came up (my dog getting home):

b4bf8527-d7c9-4934-ba78-e310aa059f0f 9:47:03 PM: debug Parse returned Bosco! has arrived
cb43a53d-1c4f-4516-84ef-6aa3c9db3ebb 9:47:00 PM: trace modeOk = false
cb43a53d-1c4f-4516-84ef-6aa3c9db3ebb 9:47:00 PM: debug Contact has stayed open long enough since last check (180230 ms): calling sendTimedMessage(open)
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:26 PM: trace NON-HUE EVENT desc: 01 C05E 0820 02 04 0000 1000 FF00 FC44 08 1000 0003 0006 0008 0004 0005 0000 FF00
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:26 PM: trace Location: desc: 01 C05E 0820 02 04 0000 1000 FF00 FC44 08 1000 0003 0006 0008 0004 0005 0000 FF00
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:25 PM: trace NON-HUE EVENT ep_cnt:1, ep:01
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:25 PM: trace Location: ep_cnt:1, ep:01
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:25 PM: trace NON-HUE EVENT desc: 01 C05E 0820 02 04 0000 1000 FF00 FC44 08 1000 0003 0006 0008 0004 0005 0000 FF00
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:25 PM: trace Location: desc: 01 C05E 0820 02 04 0000 1000 FF00 FC44 08 1000 0003 0006 0008 0004 0005 0000 FF00
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:25 PM: trace NON-HUE EVENT ep_cnt:1, ep:01
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:25 PM: trace Location: ep_cnt:1, ep:01
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:23 PM: trace NON-HUE EVENT join
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:23 PM: trace Location: join
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:22 PM: trace NON-HUE EVENT join
b7751ed4-a17d-49d4-944b-dac1a512e785 9:46:22 PM: trace Location: join
a15d3596-5ffd-42f2-85b6-86ee5d96d9df 9:45:56 PM: info [type:switch, name:switch, value:off]
a15d3596-5ffd-42f2-85b6-86ee5d96d9df 9:45:56 PM: debug description is on/off: 0
91b49b7f-04e1-46b4-b852-c0476241a1a2 9:45:55 PM: info [type:switch, name:switch, value:off]
91b49b7f-04e1-46b4-b852-c0476241a1a2 9:45:55 PM: debug description is on/off: 0
06dac2ad-ffba-4f2e-98b5-8c096ac38b41 9:45:54 PM: info [type:switch, name:switch, value:off]
06dac2ad-ffba-4f2e-98b5-8c096ac38b41 9:45:54 PM: debug description is on/off: 0
e93f5fbb-ad11-4dbd-a42f-44f9fec69d2d 9:45:54 PM: trace catchall: 0104 0004 01 01 0000 00 4239 01 00 0000 00 01 000800
e93f5fbb-ad11-4dbd-a42f-44f9fec69d2d 9:45:53 PM: trace catchall: 0104 0004 01 01 0000 00 4239 01 00 0000 03 01 8B0800
2d6b0f21-3882-454d-9602-295fc64ba0a7 9:45:53 PM: debug Group Id for this remote is: 0800
2fb88ea7-7b45-4b29-806f-0b6b240e9b0d 9:45:41 PM: debug Parse returned [name:battery, value:77, descriptionText:Back Door battery was 77%]
2fb88ea7-7b45-4b29-806f-0b6b240e9b0d 9:45:41 PM: debug Battery
2fb88ea7-7b45-4b29-806f-0b6b240e9b0d 9:45:41 PM: debug Desc Map: [raw:7BCE010001082000201C, dni:7BCE, endpoint:01, cluster:0001, size:08, attrId:0020, encoding:20, value:1c]
2fb88ea7-7b45-4b29-806f-0b6b240e9b0d 9:45:41 PM: debug description: read attr - raw: 7BCE010001082000201C, dni: 7BCE, endpoint: 01, cluster: 0001, size: 08, attrId: 0020, encoding: 20, value: 1c
cba3fed8-3720-400b-819f-7d461fe4d80f 9:45:32 PM: debug off()
cba3fed8-3720-400b-819f-7d461fe4d80f 9:45:32 PM: trace stopAction()
035a6a1e-94cd-4381-8ceb-44b400c9fd74 9:45:32 PM: trace Bulb is Off
e93f5fbb-ad11-4dbd-a42f-44f9fec69d2d 9:45:06 PM: trace catchall: 0104 0004 01 01 0000 00 4239 01 00 0000 02 01 0800
ed1bdcf4-cfba-4fc7-9d1e-0703c75f3eec 9:45:06 PM: debug Parse returned [[value:44, unit:F, name:temperature, isStateChange:true, displayed:true, linkText:Breezeway Motion Sensor, descriptionText:Breezeway Motion Sensor temperature is 44°F]]
9:44:52 PM: info Waiting on events…
9:44:52 PM: info For past logs for individual things go to the My Devices section, find the device and click on the Events link on the device information page.
9:44:52 PM: info This console provides live logging of your SmartThings.

So I went and joined the GE Link bulb directly with the remote (top button for 15 sec) and it controls it just fine. it also updates the state in ST. Great. BUT, I want to use it with the Sylvania and Osram BR30s, not the one lone GE Link I have.

I went and connected my sylvania bulb back to the hub, tried to add it to the remote. It does not and never has been willing to join the remote via the button 1 pairing (from what i have read it’s the same ZLL/TouchLink/firmware issue as Osrams). So I tried to add it via the Lutron remote smart app. No results.

I appreciate any help you can give. Seems like this is totally possible, I just don’t know how to do it.

Your groupId still isn’t correct. It looks like you tried to get the groupId from the GE Link before you paired it to the Lutron. 0800 is actually saying 08=8 group slots open and 00=0 filled. That’s why you should see 07019999 where 9999 is the real groupId.

Now that you have the GE Link paired, try the top half of the SmartApp and live logging step again using that GE Link there. (Tip: when live logging as a device populates to the log they show up along the top. Clicking on them limits the logs to that device. Might help isolate what you’re looking for.)

Once you get the groupId, input it and select your Osram bulbs in the bottom half along with the endpoint for them. (BTW: the Osrams can’t pair direct because they are ZHA, not ZLL)

So I finally got my Lutron bulb remotes playing nice with GE Link with Smartthings - all it required was a proper order of operations. First load new alpha device type, publish, (all in a web browser app) then factory reset your remote, then pair again with ST as you tell ST to find something new. It should find Lutron Connected Bulb if you’d done your homework on the webside (PC access of the website to get device code in there and published, as per the FAQ). Oh and I used the old code from workmonk at the beginning of this thread, so I didn’t do any of the stuff Scott mentions (should I?)

In the end, once I got the Lutron remote on SmartThings, and as long as I first paired a GE Link bulb to ST, I could the pair my Lutron Remote to the bulb, and it wouldn’t steal it. States are updated to the ST hub/app. I suppose previously when I didn’t have the devicetype installed for the remote, something went wrong and the remote would still continue to steal the bulbs. But not anymore. Now they both access the bulbs. Exactly what I wanted! Bulbs can still be very ‘smart’, working with smart apps, but when you need just quick, physical hard access, you go for the Lutrons, and that doesn’t just break everything.

I was very excited about this, as it may have solved one of our major issues overall. But sadly I now am not able to pair the Lutron remote with Hue bulbs (just the generic dimmable soft white kind). These bulbs are on my Hue Bridge, which are then all connected to ST. That all works, but my Lutron remote (that’s paired to the ST), just won’t ‘bind’ to the Hue bulbs.

Any ideas why? Would this require a Lutron remote first paired to the Philips hub instead - if so, is that easy? If I remember correctly, before I paired my Lutron remote to the ST hub, it could easily control a Hue Lux. Will have to try that again with a new remote.

So many questions now! Hoping someone can help.

Also, I’m not sure what all the other code/discussion is about - things are at least working for me with GE Link bulbs… what is it those topics of finding GroupIDs, etc., are related to? Seems to me right now I’m almost just set. What else should I be thinking about?

Many thanks in advance!

So I am just now seeing this post. Currently my Lutron remote is just installed as a THING. Would installing and using this device handler help with any potential issues I am might be facing?

Don’t worry about any of the other stuff if it’s working for you and your GE Links. The other topics about GroupId and such are for trying to get it to work with bulbs that can’t complete the pair process because they use a difference zigbee profile.

Yes, it would have to be paired to the Philips hub, but it can’t be paired to both Hue and ST at the same time. Even though the Philips hub is connected to ST, they each have their own zigbee network. They connect to each over hub-to-hub with ST sending commands to the Hue bridge, which then sends zigbee commands out to Hue bulbs. The Lutron can’t be on two zigbee networks at once, so you can’t have mixed control like that. I wouldn’t pair the Lutron to the Hue bridge. Look at the Hue Dimmer Switch if you want a similar device specifically designed for Hue. Again, you will not have cross-hub control though. Your best bet to control all your bulbs is to move them all to one hub. You should be able to pair GE Links to Hue and have them all there.

I believe Lutron makes several mounting options, but I don’t know how well they work in multi-switch gangboxes.

Another option may be the Osram Dimming Switch. It’s designed to fit over a traditional toggle switch, essentially locking the switch in the on position.

A community user has it working with ST, although it still has a couple bugs to work out.

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It really shouldn’t. The only thing the devicetype does is recognize and label it as the Lutron Remote. It also has debug logging for any messages from the remote to the ST hub, but the remote doesn’t send any that the hub can see.

Ahhh ok, thanks for the info.

Actually, I found that installing the device handler was absolutely crucial to getting the Lutron Remote working with ST. Before I installed the device handler in the first post (by workmonk), even if I paired the remote to ST and it showed up as a ‘Thing’, the remote would continue to steal bulbs, which meant ST could no longer access them (even though I paired the bulb to ST first).

But resetting the remote, installing the device handler, then pairing to ST allowed ST to automatically find the remote and add it as a ‘Lutron Button Controller’. Now when I would pair the remote directly to a bulb, it would no longer steal it.

I don’t know why that order of operations matters (you can’t first add the remote, then install the device handler, or not install the device handler at all), but I’ve found that it does.

By the way, there are still some bugs/restrictions. After doing all this, if you ever unpair a single bulb from the remote (by holding down the ‘off’ switch on the remote for 7 seconds or whatever it is near the bulb), everything breaks and the remote no longer works. Even if you re-pair it to the bulb, it’ll think it grabbed it (the bulb will flash), but it won’t control it. You have to then factory reset the remote and re-add it, etc. That’s what I’ve found anyway, so be cautious. Not a big deal, as I don’t want to dynamically change which lights any remote controls, so I just set it and forget it.

I’m very happy this is working now, because the Lutron remote is by far the nicest looking, and nicest ergonomically. The Hue Dimmer switch is a behemoth in comparison, and doesn’t have a ‘full on’ button (on the Lutron remote, pressing the ‘on’ button turns the bulb to full power, while pressing the ‘brighten’ button brings the lamps up to a preset state from off).


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The only problem I’ve had is the lights turning on fully dim overhead of at full brightness.

“I believe Lutron makes several mounting options, but I don’t know how well they work in multi-switch gangboxes.”

The Lutron remote can wall mount in traditional gang boxes with a Lutron wall mount. Look for ‘Pico Remote wall mount’ on amazon and they come up. Big Box stores have them too. The Decora Claro gang plates accomodate the lutron wall mount underneath without cutting a hole in your wall. They are more expensive but YMMV with regular plates, fitting the pico mount underneath. Bear in mind, the pico mount has a hinge-like backing that you can remove to make it sit flush.

Check out what I did with my install albeit with a 2-3 gang box: I keep the physical switch as a safety matter, and simply bought the Claro gang plate that is the appropriate amount larger than the original plate. So, a single switch box now contains a traditional switch, with a pico mount, both under a 2 gang claro plate. You dont even need to stick any gummy stuff to the wall. It’s great.

Or you can just remove your physical switch, wire nut your existing line/load together and cover the box slot. But I don’t recommend that at all. This leaves a ‘secret’ hot line in your empty light bulb sockets that could make trouble for someone not in the know.


Scott - thanks again, you’re so very helpful!

That makes sense. I do prefer the Lutron remote to the Hue Dimmer - which I did try and, yes, it worked wonderfully. But it’s huge, doesn’t fit into standard gangboxes, etc.

Have you paired a Lutron remote to the Hue bridge? I wonder if it’ll work properly - I don’t know of any device handlers and such for the Hue bridge of course.

If I do get it successfully paired to the Hue bridge, everything should still work with ST, right? Since the state of the bulbs should be updated via the Hue bridge to ST?

Also, I guess there’s no way to have any of these remotes control a set of GE Link and Hue lights, correct? Wouldn’t mind having one remote turn on a set of GE Links and one Lightstrip, for example.


I just tried pairing the Lutron remote to the Hue bridge - no luck. I can’t find any resources on this either, but I’ll keep digging. I think this’d be ideal, because then I could have my Hue bulbs controlled by the Lutron remote and home automation (Hue & ST via Hue).

I did, however, get everything to work with a Hue Dimmer switch. Essentially, I wanted one room with a few GE Link bulbs and one Hue Light Strip to turn on/off/dim together - and I always want a physical switch. So I removed the GE Links from ST, reset them, and paired them to Hue instead, which then easily allowed me to assign the Links & Light Strip to the dimmer.

I then added the GE Links to ST (via Hue Connect). And they work fine - meaning those particular GE Link bulbs are now controllable via Hue Dimmer Switch, Hue app, and ST. Since I want to use the ST end of it for automation, I was concerned that the state of the Hue bulbs (including now the Link) does not appear to be updated in ST when I operate them using the Hue Dimmer switch. I have to hit ‘Refresh’ for any given light bulb in the ST app twice to get it to update the state properly. I was worried then that Smart Apps wouldn’t be able to operate the bulbs properly - for example if ST thinks the light is off, but it’s actually ‘on’ b/c I turned it ‘on’ using the Hue Dimmer switch, would ST actually turn it off?

I think actually it still does. I set up a quick automation that should turn the Hue-controlled bulbs off, and I first turned them off using ST so it’s last-known-state for those bulbs was off. I then turned the lights on using the Hue Dimmer switch. Sure enough, ST still thought they were off. But then when I activated the automation (it was something like ‘turn Hue off when X switch is turned on’), ST did still turn the Hue bulbs off, even though it already thought they were off (do you expect this?)

So, seems like I have a solution that works. It’s just that, if possible, I would’ve vastly preferred the Lutron remote over the Hue - Lutron just gets ergonomics right. But, seriously a #firstworldproblem at this point. :slightly_smiling:

Thanks again,

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Smartthings is supposed to poll the hue bridge about every five minutes to get the current status of all bridge-connected bulbs. So it should catch up with the status eventually even for parallel means of control.

I found a way to get the Lutron Connected Bulb Remote to work in my scenario, to control Hue lights while still having those very Hue lights available to Hue/ST… thanks to this entry on the Wink Wiki here.

Turns out I guess the reason the Lutron wasn’t pairing with the Hue bridge was because the Hue bridge has to be ‘looking for’ a remote. And you can get it do so by telling it to search for a Hue Dimmer switch, but then just pairing the Lutron remote instead by holding down the ‘on’ button.

This is fantastic, as now I can use the Lutron or Hue Dimmer switch as I please, with each having its own advantages/disadvantages. Previously, I was opting for _non-_Hue bulbs just so I could use the Lutron switch, but now I’ll be using Hue bulbs with the Lutron switch.

I just really hope that one day Philips doesn’t kick off the ability to pair with the Lutron remote - since I’m setting up much of my house now this way, if that were to happen tens of tens of lights would just break. Arguably, in my case, it wouldn’t be in Philips’ favor anyway: it’s because I can now use the Lutron remote that I am returning my GE Links to get Hue bulbs instead (they dim far dimmer than GE Links). And anyway, hopefully if Philips did that there’d be a public outcry like there was when Hue bridge dropped support for non-Hue bulbs.

This is also why I hope that one day ST will natively support Hue bulbs.

Things are finally coming together, but what an arduous process. In my opinion, smart lighting should’ve been initially conceived and sold with physical switches as an alternative control. It only seems to be added as an afterthought now, and yet it’s the easiest most important way to ease the transition to smart lighting (and, arguably, still a better way to control lights sometimes).


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YMMV with the lutron on hue. My remote works every time, but the polling with ST…mine used to update very quickly, but now it NEVER changes the hue states, and it stopped controlling the hue bulbs too. I have to delete/re-add the hue connect smart app on a regular basis. But the Lutron never stops working - it’s great.

@Sticks18 I got my Lightifys working as per your instruction - thank you for that. Both the tuneable white and rgb, br30’s all. You are the man.

It’s not seamless though. Every once in a while the remote fails to turn on or off one of the bulbs in its group. then sometimes, only the original GE Link bulb. It never forgets that one, joined with its intended ‘button 1’ pairing.

I also had a remote freeze - green light on, unresponsive. had to crack it open and remove the battery. Any of these issues sound familiar, especially sometimes omitting bulbs?

Never could get it going on the Sylvania Ultra IQ’s, but they are a ‘zigbee dimmer’ in ST. Tried changing it to GE Link V2, ST could control, but still would not add to lutron remote. It seems like the device type doesn’t allow.

Glad you got it mostly working!

The Ultra IQs may not support the group cluster at all. Not familiar enough with them to know one way or the other.

I didn’t expect the issue of bulbs being missed. Are they far away from where the remote is? Maybe the broadcast message isn’t being repeated like typical unicast messages. That’s unfortunate.

Since this came up in our discussion here:

I’ve found that you can actually directly pair some Hue bulbs to ST: namely, Hue Bloom and at least the newer Hue BR30 color bulbs. I’ll try the Light Strip next. Is it just Hue white bulbs that don’t pair directly with ST?

That means that I can actually use both the Lutron connected bulb and ST with those Hue lights without going through the Hue hub, meaning I don’t have to pair the Lutron remote to Hue, nor do I have to run the risk of what others have experienced with Hue bulbs dropping out of ST and requiring a re-install of the Hue (Connect) SmartApp. Which, btw, has happened to me in the past as well. However, a ST rep told me they’re working on this so that it shouldn’t be an issue in the future, and that perhaps an update a week or two ago may have fixed things.

I haven’t had any issues with my Hue bulbs on ST (via Hue Connect) lately, so maybe they’ve fixed this? Agree though that it’s a real pain to uninstall and reinstall all Hue bulbs in ST!

All Hue bulbs (to my knowledge) will pair directly to ST. They’re all zigbee and ZLL (Hue uses) will fall back to ZHA (ST uses) to be interoperable. It is not recommended to do so because Hue bulbs require a zigbee controller to reset and it was possible to have a channel conflict such that the usual controller would be unable to reset a Hue connected to ST. The bulb would be stuck. You can find old threads of people offering to send their Hues to someone with a special raspberry pi xbee combo to reset their bulbs. Coincidentally, the Lutron remote solves that issue because it can factory rear Hue bulbs on any channel.

Hue bulbs are still not officially supported when directly connected, but many people do connect then that way. Since they are unofficial they may only register as a Thing or Unknown device until you manually assign the right devicetype.

Personally I connected Hue directly because I didn’t ant another hub, but the zigbee integration in the Hue hub is much better than ST’s. That’s pretty much true for any zigbee only system like Lightify. Groups and scenes are way too powerful to be missing from ST, but I understand why they didn’t initially implement it. It’s a difficult thing to have protocol specific group/scene functionality on a protocol agnostic system.

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I am very new here - my 1st post - but this thread applies directly to what I am trying to accomplish in my kitchen and to get my toe in the water for home automation. I am a techie by background and vocation, but I’ve not yet gotten into home automation.

I currently have 6 BR30 recessed lights in my kitchen that are controlled by 2 3-way switches. No dimmers. One of those 6 lights is above the sink and I want to be able to control it individually but sill allow it to be part of the “group” of the other 6. There are also 4 other lights in the kitchen on a separate single switch that are not required but would be fun to add to the mix.

I think the only way to accomplish this is via home automation and specifically with individually controllable bulbs. Based on some research, I could go with all Hue bulbs, Hue bridge, and Hue dimmer switch but

  1. The cost of the Hue bulbs is cost prohibitive when I don’t need color and there are not yet Lux BR30s
  2. I don’t like the size of the Hue dimmer which prevents it from fitting into a standard faceplate.

I next found the GE Link BR30s, the Lutron connected remote, and ST. The problem seems to be how to set them up. I’ve only scratched the surface of the ST hub, but the mention that it doesn’t handle groups concerns me since I think I would need that for my kitchen application. The Hue bridge does scenes and groups, but maybe the Lutron dimmer doesn’t integrate (currently) with it properly.

I see the following options:

  1. All Hue
  • Will work as I want it to
  • Possibly better light for the kitchen with the frosted BR30s
  • Shallower learning curve
  • Expensive
  • Hue dimmers won’t fit into standard face plate
  1. ST/GE/Lutron, no Hue
  • Least expensive
  • Lutron dimmers fit into standard face plate
  • May not work as I want due to lack of ST groups (true?)
  1. ST/GE/Lutron/Hue - pair the Lutron to Hue bridge
  • Ability to use Hue groups/scenes
  • Lutron dimmers fit into standard face plate
  • Most complex / steepest learning curve

Any suggestions for the newbie?