The device is spec’d to have a typical battery life of one year, or around 10 hours of actual transmission use. If you using it four times a day that’s still probably less than 30 seconds of daily transmission time.
There are a couple of things that could be causing extra transmissions, and therefore running the battery down faster.
What Messages is the device sending, and why?
First, obviously, if you’re doing any kind of polling on the device. If you’ve done something to try to set it up as a presence sensor that could do it. If you’re running one of the battery Checksmart apps that keeps asking the device what its battery level is every few minutes, that ironically can run the battery down pretty fast. But those are situations where you had made changes to your account rather than just using the stock code when you added It. Check to see what smart apps are associated with the device.
One) open the SmartThings mobile app
Two) choose the “my house” icon (four tiny squares at the bottom of the screen)
- choose “things” at the top of the screen
Four) find the panic button that is having the problem and tap on its name to open its detail screen (not the icons on the left or right of the name, just the name itself)
Five) once the detail screen has opened, first tap on “recently” at the top of the screen and just look to see what events the device is reporting. If you see a whole bunch of events that are not button pushes, then there’s some polling issue.
- now choose “smart apps” at the top of the detail screen and see what smart apps are associated with this device
So this process should give you a good idea of how many “events” your device has in a day and what smartapps are causing/handling them
do messages have to be sent multiple times?
Another possibility is if your zwave mesh is not strong and the device is having a hard time reaching the hub. Then it might be doing a lot of retransmitting. But if you’re only using it four times a day that honestly shouldn’t be a big deal.
Still, you do sometimes see one device rundown much more quickly than an identical device that is in a different location in the house just because the first one has to keep doing multiple transmissions due to weakness in the mesh
bad battery
Those first two things are things you can check just to see if there’s anything unusual about your set up. But to be honest the most common culprit is just a bad battery. Batteries do vary tremendously in quality, and sometimes the battery that ships with the device from the manufacturer just isn’t very good.
If I were in your situation I would try replacing the battery with a good quality brand, probably Duracell or Energizer, and then just see how it goes. (Panasonic generally don’t test well so I would avoid those. Amazon basics seem to vary a lot in quality, I suspect they are made by different companies.)
There are a lot of cheap batteries which should be avoided altogether. And a lot of mid range quality which are OK for a number of uses. But for home automation, reliability is almost always one of the top priorities, and I tend to go for higher-quality battery brands for that reason. I know they cost more, but they do make a difference.
For AA’s, I like the Kirkland brand from Costco and they test very high on pretty much every lab’s tests including Consumer Reports. But they don’t make a CR 2450.
So in your specific situation, I’d check The first two possibilities I listed above just to be sure there’s nothing goofy going on. Then I’d go ahead and buy one good battery and see what the battery life is with that. The panic button is a one-year warranty, right? As long as you have at least three months left on your warranty for the device, I’d do a two-month test with a good battery. If it runs through that battery really fast, return The panic button as a defective device.