Also here is a quick draw of the area as to where the fixture is located (recessed lighting throughout)
I would agree given the additional white and black wires in this box. Please confirm the other wires in this box as I only see a single red wire. So thinking you have several 14-2âs and 1 14-3? If this is the case power comes to here and the other 14-2s are going to receptacles and other light switches.
I will start composing a set of instructions which will take me a bit of time. In the mean while you can remove the other switches from the boxes. Please remove the tape from the white wires in all boxes. That means itâs a hit wire and we will be turning those into neutrals so we have neutral at all locations for the Aux switch.
There is 1 black wire to the 14/3 and 1 to the 14/2 being connected to the switch. The red wire is connected from 14/3 to the switch, just unplugged as it was obstructing the box. Will work on removing the tape. Thanks again
And to confirm thereâs only one 14/3 and one 14/2 in Box 1
Actually sorry thereâs another 14/2 in Box 1. Didnât notice it on the bottom left. Was hiding behind a nut. This is providing neutrals to this box. So 1 black from 14/3 to the switch and another black which is connected to a nut connecting the other 14/2s
Box one has another wire as I see additional wires in the wire bundles
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OK got it will work on instructions now for each switch. Assume you have an extra Aux switch for your other box you can use. If not the instructions wonât affect that if you need to order another as the rest will continue to work in the mean time.
Yep I have aux all ready to go. 
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Please confirm one more thing for me. In box 1, in the 14-3 that has the red wire, is that white wire bundled with the other white wires in that wire nut?
Yes there are white wires on each bundle and all connected together via nut.
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@4Way here you goâŠ
First things first, make sure you turn off the breaker to these switches. I am not a licensed electrician but I am a very knowledgeable on electrical wiring as I have replaced most every switch in my house with GE and other brand smart switches, helped several neighbors, and lots of ST community members. I am calling each box based on your pictures and numbers in the above posts.
Box 1:
Master smart switch here. This box has your line from breaker given its other 14-2 wires likely feeding other receptacles and switches.
- All current wiring is correct
- Leave the white wire bundle alone and the pigtail alone as this will provide neutral to the master switch and Aux switches and other receptacles.
Box 2:
Aux switch here. The picture is very dark and the below instructions are assuming that there are ONLY 2 14-3 (red, black, white) wires in this box
- You really donât need the wire nuts and pig tails. These consume precise room in electrical boxes and if you are having a hard time pushing the switch into the box you can remove them and terminate the wires directly into the switch. White to neutral and red to traveler.
- I only see 1 red wire hooked up to the Aux switch traveler terminal. Please hook up the other red wire into the second hole of the traveler terminal. This will provide traveler power to the next switch.
- White wire(s) hooked up to the neutral terminal. Existing pigtail is fine if you want to leave it.
- Leave the black wires bundled in the back as I am not sure how these boxes are daisy chained to supply load power from Box 1 to Box 4.
- Be sure to trim the wires so that bare copper is not exposed out of the back of the Aux switch.
Box 3:
Aux switch here. The below instructions are assuming that there are ONLY 2 14-3 (red, black, white) wires in this box
- You really donât need the wire nuts and pig tails. These consume precise room in electrical boxes and if you are having a hard time pushing the switch into the box you can remove them and terminate the wires directly into the switch. White to neutral and red to traveler.
- Both red wires need to be hooked up to the traveler terminal of the Aux switch.
- White wire(s) hooked up to the neutral terminal. Existing pigtail is fine if you want to leave it.
- Leave the black wires bundled in the back as I am not sure how these boxes are daisy chained to supply load power from Box 1 to Box 4.
- Be sure to trim the wires so that bare copper is not exposed out of the back of the Aux switch.
Box 4:
Aux switch here. Believe this is where your load to the light fixtures is located.
- At the bottom right of the picture there is a wire with black electrical tape. It doesnât look like you had this hooked up to the switch in either picture of Box 4. I believe this is the white wire going to Box 5 and we need to get neutral there. Please remove the electrical tape and either add to your white wire bundle or simply insert into the other hole on the neutral terminal of your Aux switch.
- Hook up both red wires to the traveler terminal.
- Leave other wiring the same.
Box 5:
Aux switch here.
- Since you only have a single 14-3, you donât need the black wire so please put a wire nut on it and tuck it away in the back of the box.
- Red wire to traveler terminal.
- White wire to the neutral terminal.
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@ritchierich You are awesome⊠thanks. Just got done with everything. switches arenât working yet. I still have one spare black wire on Box 4 which is hot (confirmed by tester) that I donât have anything hooked up to. Previously, it was pigtailed in a wire nut with the black wire in electrical tape which is now a neutral. Wouldnât that have been part of the daisy chain which is now potentially broken? Originally I couldnât get the switches to power lights on until every pair of black wires was pigtailed. Even box 5.
Is that to the 14-2 that you highlighted earlier?
Whatâs the black wire in the 14-3 wire where red and white are hooked up to the switch hooked up to?
The hot wire is coming from Box 3âs 14-3. I had it tied to the black wire in electrical tape before. Now that the wire in electrical tape is being used as a neutral, Box 3âs 14/3 black wire is now unused. Photo below, didnât remove the electrical tape just yet (wanted to get it all working first)
This is very standard to daisy chain hot or load from one box to another as thatâs the way 3+ ways work. I wouldnât be surprised to hear itâs coming from Box 2 etc.
In Box 3 is there a 14-2 Romex? That was one of my original questions to check Box 2 and 3 for wires other than 2 14-3s
Box 2 and box 3 just have the 2 14-3s. Box 4 has 4 sets of cables, 3 14-3s (one is used for another light) and a 14-2.
And just cause Iâm checking every box again.box 1 has 2 14-2s and 1 14-3. Box 5 has 1 14-3
Ok leave box 2 and 3 alone with the black wires from each 14-3 connected. In box 4 connect the black wire from the 14-2 with the black wire of the 14-3. This will send hot/load back to Box 1 master smart switch. You have either load in Box 4 and hot in Box 1 or vice versa Assume you have the new switches where hit and load donât have specific terminals and this should work.
I was thinking about trying that, didnât wanna blow anything up lol. Will get back to you within an hour or so need to grab the kids. Thanks
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Apologies I should have mentioned this in the instructional post. This should solve it.