3-way switch with z-wave relay

The “Vision” one is an exact duplicate of the Monoprice – pretty certain they have the same manufacturer. But thanks for the link to the Enerwave – a little more expensive but hopefully more robust.

Aeon / Aeotec also has a micro-switch … not sure they have dual-relay version. But it has its own set of issues…

Yeah I’ve seen the Aeon Labs one. Was more or less interested in the dual relay ones to save money on replacing all my bathroom / bedroom switches with 2 gang boxes.

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If you already have it wired for old style 3-way switches you could just replace them with a new kit that is z-wave enabled. I know that Home Depot sells them. Amazon has “Leviton VP00R-1LZ” as the secondary switch and you need a “Leviton VP0SR-1LZ” for the master switch. You can have more than one secondary switch if you have a 4-way, etc.

Yeah, that is definitely easier I suppose, but it’s far more expensive.
I’m looking to save as much as I can on these projects haha.

Yup. But may save a lot of time… It is a dimmer, however, too - bonus feature if you can make use of it.

One thing to check before going with the “micro” approach is take a look behind the switch. There is NEVER enough room… :slight_smile: I spent a couple of hours trying to get two of them in a 4 switch box that was supposed to be extra deep but I couldn’t manage to do it. fortunately I could put them in another box and just jumper over to the switches in the main 4-switch box.

With the micro approach you’d just need to get all the time power over to the other box and then use z-wave from the non-load switch to control the load switch. I bet you could do it with just one smartApp that checks the status of the load switch and changes it to the other state.

Just spoke to someone at Enerwave regarding the RSM1 device.
For reference, here is the diagram he sent.

This is how to use existing 3-way wiring to control a Single Relay Module from Enerwave… but may also work for Monoprice / Vision Single Relay devices as well but may translate differently with the wires.

However, I’m still trying to understand the diagram but wanted to make sure I posted it here for any searchers.
It requires the first switch to be swapped out with a 4-way switch. So even with the cost of the relay module being at $24-30 this solution is still about half the price of buying the GE $35+Add On $19.

Swap out the one 3-way switch with one of these:

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The monoprice single relay claims it can work with 2 switches as a 3-way / 4-way type of setup…

Nobody have any input on this?!?

Where does it say that?

I definitely think it can work if the wiring is right. And then put the relay by the light like I explained above.

There isn’t constant power to the light fixtures in my 3-way setups so this module would be useless in the light fixture.

I think how you’d do that in your case would be to reconnect the wires from all of the switch boxes so that there is constant power in all of them - and the light box. Then they would control the relay through the z-wave interface instead of physically. It sounds strange at first - I helped my brother install an Insteon 3-way switch and one of the boxes just had one romex wire running into it to supply power to the switch - it seemed so wrong…

You know, I was thinking that but it seemed weird so I just put it all back and gave up haha.

So basically I need to make sure there is constant power in both gang boxes? I mean, in my case there does happen to be power in both boxes

Guys, all these switches can work in a 3 ways but it’s all depend on your current wiring.

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Any additional insight you wish to add?
Such as which wiring diagrams this could work in, etc.?

I’ve seen there are like 9 diff ways to wire 3-way switches.
It would be a great service to the community if we could identify those types and give some basic insight into how to implement it.

I would LOVE to make these work with my 3-way switches. It’s the only things left in my house that needs “z-wave-ified”.

Basically, if you have line, load and neutral in the same gangbox. Then you can get all the relay module to work by using the common wires of both switches as your switch.
Do you know what’s your current wiring look like? It’s easier to figure it out this way instead of me spending hours coming up with all possible ways. Maybe one day I will do that but a little busy at the moment with family and projects.

Here is a reference site for 3 ways.

I have done my best to determine that my setup is looking the most like this:

When either switch turns the light off, there is no constant hot in the fixture or anything and there are only one white and one black coming out of the fixture in the ceiling.

Most if not all of my switch boxes have some form of neutral bundle / hot bundle in them so powering the modules houldn’t be an issue.

Any recommendations for me? if possible, with the Monoprice Z-Wave In-Wall On/Off Module which I have a bunch of but have none of the aeon labs ones right now.
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=11989
This one apparently is capable of being controlled with 2 switches as per the instructions.

Any help is obviously much appreciated. Thanks for responding!

And one maybe like this since it’s very similar to the first I believe:

This second wiring I can definitely be able to help.
Remove the load wire from the light switch on the left. And connect that wire to the red wire on you Monoprice module.
Connect the green wire of your Monoprice module to the empty screw terminal (common and usually black color) of the switch previously occupied by the load wire.
Connect black and blue wires of the Monoprice module to the black line hot bundle.
Connect white wire on your Monoprice module to your neutral bundle.

The first and second drawings are not the same. The load wiring bundle goes to different box so relay module won’t work. Z-wave Wall switch and add-on is the only way I know off for the first picture.

To check for line and load. Put your meter negative to neutral and positive to the common screw terminal of the switch. With constant 120v regardless of switches position. That’s your line hot.
The common screw terminal of the switch with voltage changed by flipping switches is your load.

Ahh, oh well… thanks for trying. The more I think about it, the 2nd diagram doesn’t really align with my recollection of the wiring in any of the switches.

I’d venture to say the 1st diagram is the most popular choice for my house… is it generally the most common 3-way setup?

I’ll check it again when I get home but I’m not optimistic… this has been a real disappointment to my money saving venture :stuck_out_tongue: