So I took the fixture down this evening and snapped the following pics.
The only wires going into the fixture are a hot and neutral. The insulation (grey) on these wires match the insulation going out of my 3-gang panel. You can see them here.
So I finally think I have figured out what is going on. If you look closely at the picture above, in the center of the box there is actually 4 sets of wires with white insulation coming into the box, in addition to the grey insulated wires that go out to the fixture. The one set of white insulated wires has a black wire pigtailed to three more black wires that go to each switch. On the main 3 way switch this connects to the terminal marked common. Multimeter confirmed this wire as being the line (hot) on each switch. So there is only one wire coming in that powers all three switches. The remaining three wires go out. 2 to there respective lights and one to the remote 3 way switch. What I figured out using a multimeter is that the only thing with constant power is the black wire on the common terminal of the main 3 way switch, which makes sense. I also confirmed the black wire on the remote switch is a load line that goes from the remote switch to the fixture. The white and red wires on each switch (remote and main) have to be traveler wires since they are hot/not hot depending on the state of each switch and whether the light is actually on or not.
The issue is that I still don’t have a neutral in the remote box. The light fixture is closer to the main 3 way switch box, so what the electrician did was power the main switch with the hot line and run 2 travelers to the remote switch from the main switch. He then ran the load line back from the remote switch into the main switch box and then out to the fixture. Instead of running the neutral to the remote switch box and back to the main switch box and then to the fixture, he tied into the neutral in the main switch box and ran it straight from there to the fixture. This is why I was so confused. Also goes to show, as many on here have already said, you can’t trust line color or assume anything with electricity. A multimeter will confirm it all.
Hopefully all of that makes sense. It makes perfect sense to me now since I broke out the multimeter and tested everything. But…I’m still in the predicament of no neutral in the remote box. Suggestions on how I can get this thing wired up now that my wiring, hopefully, makes sense?