How was the original switch hooked up? Were both the white and black wires hooked to the switch? If so you are out of luck since you don’t have a neutral coming into the switch box. Basically that switch is cutting the positive line.
Yeah the white and black where connected to the switch and the bare copper ground.
The junction box that this switch is in has three other switches. One of them is a three way one a on/off for an outlet and the other a on/off for a hallway light.
Any thoughts on getting a neutral wire to this connected switch or is that even possible
Flip the breaker that powers this switch to see if the outlet or hallway light are on the same circuit. If so you can use the neutral from those switches, assuming there is a neutral wire in this junction box. If not, unfortunately you are out of luck without pulling a wire from your fan to your switch.
What is the age of the home and/or wiring? if you don’t have a neutral, you would have to pull one. In our house, the lights are run through on a loop, so no neutral in the box. I’m going to be pulling all new wire soon though (hopefully).
The house was built in 1990 it’s had some remodel done prior to our purchase so I’m not sure whats in the wall. I want to say in the junction box I saw a series of white wires bundled and capped will explore that tonight
About my luck by $150 worth of switches and not able to use them
Another person here chiming in on issues with the GE Z-Wave dimmers. I have quite a few single-pole Z-Wave dimmer setups which work great, however when it comes to the 3-way setup, I can only get the master dimmer to work; the “add-on” does not function. Conveniently, the 2 circuits that are giving me trouble have their Master switches located in (1) 2-gang junction box with a single neutral bundle for the entire box; both circuits are on the same breaker. For each master dimmer, I have the Line, Load, Neutral, Ground, and red traveller wires connected. In each of the “add-on” dimmers, I have the black Load wires nutted together, and the neutral, red traveller, and ground connected to the switch. I have been able to identify that none of the dimmers are faulty by swapping each dimmer such that it is the Master in the circuit. Any ideas?
I’ve not hooked up a three way switch, but I see that the GE ones come as a switch and an add on. Is there a chance that two “master” switches won’t work together and you need an add on or slave switch?
It’s not possible to have 2 master switches in a 3 ways. Also it’s not cost effective to go this route. Figuring out your wiring configuration is the hardest part hence so many people having problem with their smart switches.
Finally got around to hooking up a GE (old Iris Brand) On/Off switch (45637) to two fluorescent lights (each light has two fluorescent tubes).
The switch seems to be working - blue light turns on when switch is off and I’ve paired with ST hub. I can hear it clicking when I turn the switch off and on.
Only problem is that the lights aren’t turning on. I had to replace the tunes and noticed I had 34w before and these are 40w. Don’t see anything else different.
What kind of automation/control were you looking for with these? Turn on on a schedule? Turn on when a motion sensor is tripped? Turn on when someone arrives home? Or?
The reason why I ask is that lag would impact some of these more than others.
For those use cases, you could get a lutron Caseta switch and use IFTTT for indirect integration with SmartThings. The problem is you would also need a Caseta Smart Bridge to get the Internet integration, so that would probably be too much if all you need is a single switch.
